Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 166
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ECR033, did u find someone to do the work for you? if ur looking at somewhere pm me and i can give my mates at MRT a call and get a quote for you, just tell me wat work needs to be done and wat parts u have.....

Not yet mate - still looking into it. Once I sort out exactly what I need done, I'll drop you a PM :P
id say ur clutch will hold, i had a 5 puk clutch before this one and man it used to take a thrashing, just was a little bit of a bitch when it heated up... i dunno though

it depends on the clamping pressure too, your one might be fine just wait and see...

with most puks and buttons they are not meant to be slipped much at all, so if you slip it they overheat quickly and will slip easily. but once cooled down they will be fine again..

so yeah if u dont slip them they should be fine.

I run a 9puk Ceramic 1tonne, these handle up to around 300rwkw without any issues.

I had a play with launching in second at 3000rpm, the clutch had to be ridden otherwise it would break out in to a wheel spin.

With quite a bit of slipping it showed zero signs of wanting to slip, felt exactly the same after the big slip, unlike organics that go all crappy until they cool down.

I've previously had organic clutches that with a hard launch had second gear slipping. :P

Ceramics tollerate heat better than organics in the respect of grip however they are known to burnout quick if they are slipped too much.

GunMetalR33: just curious, is ur engine internally standard? or u got some work done?

Nup, all stock inside. I would like to get a new zaust cam but i dont have the $700 for it. I am hoping to get around 260rwkw at ~20psi. I would be happy with 250 though :D

hey guys just dropped my car off at the exhaust place to get the dump fixed up, should be done by this arvo, then the tuner will take it tonight and hopefully it will be mine tomorrow, worst case wednesday.....yay cant wait!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

hey guys, tuner got back from jamboree today, he was really impressed with the power my car is putting out on a mild tune. from wat he says, cruising at 90kmh in 3rd gear, once he puts his foot down the car starts wheel spinning. car goes on dyno this saturday for a proper tune and reading. Look out guys this is looking promising!!!!

Yep new tires.

240rwkw here and with new 225's I'm lucky to start losing traction in second on a smooth flat road.

I can chirp into third with a nice clutch slam but noooooooo hope of the car breaking traction due to pure power in this gear.

What tyres are those? I have some cheap 265's with new tread and can spin up in second... with only 200rwkw

Edited by GunMetalR33

yeh guys i know that, but my tyres are fine, they are new and i have 255's, it spins them easy, i have dunlop sports which have a fair bit more traction then my old tyres, i used to be able to spin 3rd with a clutch dab before, now its even easier....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...