Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

honestly i dunno but to get around 250 and more out of a standard rb25 on anything less then 17 psi, to me sounds a big challenge, and not to mention the end result will not be reliable.

  • Replies 166
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I remember freebaggin made some where up around 270-280rwkw on 17psi with his hybrid turbo using a vlt turbine housing.

The turbo specs were selected by Tim Possingham, it was an expensive bugger though, just under 3k. I suspect the comp and or turbine housings had a little bit of power porting.

The HKS int. gate housings are around $800.

Edited by Cubes

With a .63 rear housing and a GT30 comp WITHOUT zaust cam you wont get near 250rwkw under 17psi IMO. With a zaust cam gear set to 3deg advance and a HPInABox GT30 with .63 zaust housing I am hoping to get close to 260rwkw at ~20psi but not over 20psi... I think (hope) that the .63 zaust housing is good enough swollow enough to avoid serging...

With a .63 rear housing and a GT30 comp WITHOUT zaust cam you wont get near 250rwkw under 17psi IMO. With a zaust cam gear set to 3deg advance and a HPInABox GT30 with .63 zaust housing I am hoping to get close to 260rwkw at ~20psi but not over 20psi... I think (hope) that the .63 zaust housing is good enough swollow enough to avoid serging...

No work done. However I think when considdering engine life you should be right at 20 psi as long as your knock is under control. Keep in mind that this is NO race car and will only see 20psi for short periods of time. Lets face it, how many roads are there in the ACT that will allow an rb25det with 260wrkw to be going full blat for any period of time :P I think there is some risk of doing a head gasket but thats no biggy, I will get a fater one when that happens to lowwer the compression and all will be sweet.

Trust me its easier to act ignorent rather than worry about it mate :)

Edited by GunMetalR33

Yea, rb25's a good engines and I have been told a a few people that the head gaskets should last on 20psi. I think its not GOOD for your engine & an engine with less power and boost will last longer...

Things to worrie about are:

ring lands (monitor knock & A/F ratio's and all should be fine)

head gasket (no more than 20 psi / adj cam gear at 3' adv helps this)

rods (dont rev rb25's over 7000 consitantly)

Before going big boost/power get a new timming belt and water pump...

I would like to get a zaust cam to lower the boost...

rant rant rant :P

yeh i agree, coz mines pushing out about 17psi and i have been scared off by a few people telling me it wont last long.... i guess its all about how heavy ur foot is.

dude,

please correct me if i am wrong, are you running an internally gated A/R .82 housing on your turbo?

if so, what brand?

Yea, rb25's a good engines and I have been told a a few people that the head gaskets should last on 20psi. I think its not GOOD for your engine & an engine with less power and boost will last longer...

Things to worrie about are:

ring lands (monitor knock & A/F ratio's and all should be fine)

head gasket (no more than 20 psi / adj cam gear at 3' adv helps this)

rods (dont rev rb25's over 7000 consitantly)

Before going big boost/power get a new timming belt and water pump...

I would like to get a zaust cam to lower the boost...

rant rant rant :P

same me i wanna get a set of zaust cams, help boost up a little better too....

dude,

is that a genuine Garrett GT exhaust housing?

all genuine mate, only thing that aint is the dump obviously. if ur after a turbo like mine give me a pm and i can organise u someone to give u a quote, i got mine pretty cheap..

honestly i dunno but to get around 250 and more out of a standard rb25 on anything less then 17 psi, to me sounds a big challenge, and not to mention the end result will not be reliable.

Its not challenge, ive done it, as have a few others also before me :)

get a new tuner

its just that im wondering how much psi a standard engine can take and for how long?

Its not just a simple question of PSI.

Do a search and a lot of reading. There are many many things that contribute to a motor shitting itself, not just psi.

mass iv, can you confirm at what rpm you are hitting full boost and if and when your tyres start to lose traction?

You mentioned earlier that the tuner said he was losing traction in 4th (or was it 3rd) to which other including myself thought too hard to beleive.

As I mentioned previously, I'm running just over 240rwkw with full boost of 16psi at around 3500rpm and there's no way in hell my car comes close to losing traction in 3rd with newish tyres on it.

In fact, it will hardly even lose it in second, if at all.

For the record, I'm running 225 Dunlop SP3000's on the stock rims.

Maybe the stocko 16inch rims give better straight line traction?

Maybe my car is actually running 200rwkw? (no way :))

As for you guys running GT30's, being a 550-600hp unit I'd say that 250rwkw is still quite a fair whack under the efficiency range of the turbo. I have a 460hp unit on mine pulling similar power with similar boost and still haven't hit the turbos limit. Need injectors :)

Perhaps we're seeing a limit with the stock cam setup because I was actually expecting more from this turbo (GT30) considering you guys have injectors giving you enough fuel for far more than 250rwkw.

ok id like to clear up a few things, my car is at full boost by 4000rpm, which is around 17psi. secondly it spins crazy in second and does a little into 3rd, i dunno if the dyno reading is incorrect but it deffinately feels as though my car has a little more then 240rwkw... not to mention i have smoked a few big powered cars..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...