Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mike, I replaced my front splits last weekend, and the wiring for the tweeters doesn't seem to come from the drivers in the doors. There are only two wires heading to the drivers in the door on each side, and no wires leading away from them. When I looked at the tweeters and replaced them, they had a separate set of wires leading to them, but not sure where they came from, maybe it was directly from the head unit. They seemed to have tiny crossovers attached to them directly.

Tracing the wires would have been a hugely time-consuming process - taking the A-pillar cover off is a task and a half, because it's all one piece going to the B- and C-pillars too, so I just didn't bother.

  • 2 weeks later...

excellent guide - thanks Alex.

only problem Ive found is the headunit doesnt remember the settings which means the ignition wire isnt the right one.

I wired it up to the light blue with yellow stripe wire as recommended.

Any suggestions?

Also, cos I live in the country, I cannot access the areial plug adaptor.

Anyone know how to get one of these online?

Or, is some kind City dweller willing to get me one and post it to me (at my expense of course) :mad:

The memory is stored via the 12v constant supply, the ignition just turns it on ...so the ignition wire isnt your problem. double check your main positive connection, Also those wires are based on the S1 ( just in case you have an S2)

Cheers

Lee

Edited by STAGE-A
  • 2 months later...

Hey guys,

I just picked up my new head unit today and i have spent the whole afternoon completely ripping out the old system which had a japanese GPS and stacker and tv wires which all needed to be removed under the carpet it was a massive pain in the arse it took about 3 hrs to get it all completely removed and all the trims put back together.

Anyway i was looking at my new headunit wires and the only one im confused with is the auto arial wire do i connect this to the wire that alex was talking about? Black and Yellow one?

Cheers Simon

Hey guys,

I just picked up my new head unit today and i have spent the whole afternoon completely ripping out the old system which had a japanese GPS and stacker and tv wires which all needed to be removed under the carpet it was a massive pain in the arse it took about 3 hrs to get it all completely removed and all the trims put back together.

Anyway i was looking at my new headunit wires and the only one im confused with is the auto arial wire do i connect this to the wire that alex was talking about? Black and Yellow one?

Cheers Simon

the yellow wire alex mentioned is the power wire to the glass antenna if u dont put power to it the reception is crap i just used the ign wire so its only live when ign is on. i just finished mine a while ago if the auto arial wire is the one on the headunit it is there to operate an electric arial when unit is on. i didnt use it on mine i just put it into the new plug i got from dick smith and didnt have anything in the other half of plug so it was just terminated .if i decide to put an elekky arial in later i just solder a wire onto the pin and put it in. the plug i got was a 15 pin job from dick smith it cost about 5 bucks you just solder the pins to the wires then push them into the plug base where u want them i put the female onto the original car wires and then the male on the radio wires so it all looks reasonably factory etc and was a neat job without tape also headunit just unplugs now like the original did ............ i hope that helps a little regards mike
Cheers Mike,

Yeah that helps heaps, just one other question on the head unit what wire do i connect to the lights wire from the factory wiring loom?

picked mine up from the ciggy lighter light

Hey alex,

Yeah for sure id like to catch up soon anyway i wanna see how good your car looks when its done.

But fortunately i sorted it all out today thank god it was pretty simple if only i had a multi metre from the start lol.

The end result came up really well im extremely pleased with it.

I will post pics tomorrow night when i get a chance to take some pics.

All i can say is to who ever the person is who hooked up the boost gauge before me and wired up the old stereo and other crap had absolutely no idea on what he/she was doing it was an absolute butchering of a job.

  • 1 month later...

Has any one worked out how to get decent reception with aftermarket head units and the aerials in the rear windows? The only wire I have that isn't connected to anything is blue with a white stripe but when I give that 12v it doesn’t make any difference to the reception but sucks up a heap of power as if it's earthed.

The black with yellow stripe wire that Alexcim claims is the power for the antenna is connected at both ends. One end joins into the wires going to the antennas and the other links into the main body loom.

I guess my next step will me to snip the black with yellow stripe wire and give the end going to the antennas 12v and see what happens.

I had to remove all 4 screws holding the console before removing the rectangle plastic faceplate...thats coz i found 2 screws at the bottom which attached the stereo surround to the metal center console just below the clips...if u tried to pop the surround off before removing the screws...might end up with a broken bracket.

Has any one worked out how to get decent reception with aftermarket head units and the aerials in the rear windows? The only wire I have that isn't connected to anything is blue with a white stripe but when I give that 12v it doesn’t make any difference to the reception but sucks up a heap of power as if it's earthed.

The black with yellow stripe wire that Alexcim claims is the power for the antenna is connected at both ends. One end joins into the wires going to the antennas and the other links into the main body loom.

I guess my next step will me to snip the black with yellow stripe wire and give the end going to the antennas 12v and see what happens.

Are you sure it doesn't come back out somewhere behind the head unit? As the power to the antena is normally switched on/off by the head unit (no point having it powered if it is off!) - so I'd try what you sugested above...

Ian

Hi Guys/Gals

Quick question ( i hope), hubby recently installed one of those 10Mhz FM Radio Convertors into my Stag... found a problem with it this morning.. the FM convertor works all the time when the car is in "park"... the problem is when you put the car in drive it still works until you put your foot on the accelerator then it turns off... although in park/reverse its fine.... I dont think its a short otherwise it shouldnt work at all... Its strange but its like there isnt enough power under load????

Suggestions??? has hubby connected something incorrectly or forgotten something??? any ideas would be helpful before we pull it apart again to find the fault :confused:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...