Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

plz clear your PM box SK :O..  Have transfered the money for my order today.. Just need to send the details that its actually for.

Sorry, I logged off early last night and 20 PM's arrived and filled the inbox. It's OK now.

Will the shocks work just as well with my kings springs lows?

Are the rates and lengths compatable?

Yep, the Kings "lows" are similar in rate and height to the Whiteline springs used in the kit. I don't know about Kings "superlows" though, haven't tested them.

:) cheers :)

  • 2 weeks later...
Okay lets do this thing, put me down for: shocks, springs, adj. swaybars, bump stops & dust covers.

Cheers,

- Ash.

Thanks for supporting the Group Buy, please PM me with the details.

:) cheers :)

Sydneykid,

I noticed all your prices seem to be for the separate item and not the packages. Can you get a discounted rate on a Whiteline Works package?

Sydneykid,

I noticed all your prices seem to be for the separate item and not the packages. Can you get a discounted rate on a Whiteline Works package?

If you add up the items you will find the Group Buy is much cheaper than the Whiteline Works Package with the same items included. Plus I have chosen specific sizes of bars, shock valving and alignment settings that work together to give a total result.

:) cheers :)

A couple of guys have asked me about the front camber kit KCA336, and its cost. As you can see it is a very complex kit with a lot of components;

Skyline_Front_Camber_Kit.jpg

In the kit there are;

8 X polyurethane bushes

2 X steel offset drilled shafts

4 X aluminim collars

2 X high tensile bolts

4 X high tensile nuts

4 X centre drilled steel shafts

4 X high tensile spring washers

1 X set of instructions

1 X "Whiteline Test Pilot" sticker

This enables you to adjust the camber at the outer upper control arm. It also replaces the rubber bushes (with polyurethane bushes) on the inner upper control arm. Both of these are high wear points on R32's, almost every R32 I see has worn upper control arm bushes. This is mostly due to their age, but Nissan obviously saw room for improvement in the design of the upper control arm. The R33 version of the front upper control arm spreads the load over a wider area in an attempt to reduce the wear on the bushes.

So you do get a lot for your money and most R32's need it badly.

:D cheers :blink:

Edited by Sydneykid

Hey Sydneykid,

Im keen to go ahead with the purchase now,

I am after front and rear springs,shocks, bump stops and dust covers

I worked it out to be $1297 in total

is this correct? I need to pay via my credit card, how do I go about this?

Regards, Chris

Hey Sydneykid,

Im keen to go ahead with the purchase now,

I am after front and rear springs,shocks, bump stops and dust covers

I worked it out to be $1297 in total

is this correct? I need to pay via my credit card, how do I go about this?

Regards, Chris

Sorry Chris, Jamex don't take credit cards. In order to get the Group Buy pricing I had to agree to their payment terms.

Following are the prices for your requested kit;

R32GTST

73175 Front Springs $144.00

70191 Rear Springs $144.00

Front Bilstein Shocks $561.00

Rear Bilstein Shocks $561.00

W0921 Bump Stop & Dust Cover $102.00

Zero Freight $-

Sub Total $1,512.00

Less extra 5% $75.60

Total $1,436.40

PM me for further details

:) Cheers :)

is this group buy still running

Yes, there are still a few sets of R32GTST Bilsteins in stock.

:) cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

Hi,

Im the one who was asking you about the tein's for sale etc before... and you recommended this group buy.

I was wondering.... These are Blistein Adjustables right? How much would it cost for a front and rear set of bilsteins, springs, dust covers, and bump stops. And do you think i could get anywhere near this selling my tein coilovers depending on whether they are HA's or HR's offcourse. Do you think this is a wise move? I kno everyone raves about how good coilovers are, but i just dont see the practicality of having tein coilovers, they are just too damn hard, you get less grip in my opionion no matter where u go...it just breaks traction to easy and i have a set of 255's and 235's on the 32. Its only running like 12psi through a side mount, and with new tyres still manages to spin up quite a bit in first let alone go around corners with not that much power ....this suspension setup should ssee some more "positive" traction shouldnt it? should the amount of roll be almost matchable?

Your help would be appreciated...

Cheers, David.

Hi,

Im the one who was asking you about the tein's for sale etc before... and you recommended this group buy.

I was wondering.... These are Blistein Adjustables right? How much would it cost for a front and rear set of bilsteins, springs, dust covers, and bump stops. And do you think i could get anywhere near this selling my tein coilovers depending on whether they are HA's or HR's offcourse. Do you think this is a wise move? I kno everyone raves about how good coilovers are, but i just dont see the practicality of having tein coilovers, they are just too damn hard, you get less grip in my opionion no matter where u go...it just breaks traction to easy and i have a set of 255's and 235's on the 32. Its only running like 12psi through a side mount, and with new tyres still manages to spin up quite a bit in first let alone go around corners with not that much power ....this suspension setup should ssee some more "positive" traction shouldnt it? should the amount of roll be almost matchable?

Your help would be appreciated...

Cheers, David.

Hi,

Im the one who was asking you about the tein's for sale etc before... and you recommended this group buy.

I was wondering.... These are Blistein Adjustables right? How much would it cost for a front and rear set of bilsteins, springs, dust covers, and bump stops. And do you think i could get anywhere near this selling my tein coilovers depending on whether they are HA's or HR's offcourse. Do you think this is a wise move? I kno everyone raves about how good coilovers are, but i just dont see the practicality of having tein coilovers, they are just too damn hard, you get less grip in my opionion no matter where u go...it just breaks traction to easy and i have a set of 255's and 235's on the 32. Its only running like 12psi through a side mount, and with new tyres still manages to spin up quite a bit in first let alone go around corners with not that much power ....this suspension setup should ssee some more "positive" traction shouldnt it? should the amount of roll be almost matchable?

Your help would be appreciated...

Cheers, David.

Hi David, I really have no idea how much you can sell the Teins for, some guys like the hard ride and will pay $good for it. Try advertising them in the For Sale forum or on Ebay, I guarantee that you will sell them, I just don't know for how much.

Stabilser bars should control roll, not springs. That's why the Teins are so hard, they try to do everything with the spring rate. I can assure you that you won't get a better handling/ride than the Group Buy for anywhere near the cost of the kit.

The Group Buy price for 4 springs, 4 shocks and 2 pairs of bump stops and dust covers is $1487.80 with free freight and the extra 5% discount for orders over $1K. The prices of the full kit are in the first post on this thread.

Hope that was of some help

:P cheers :D

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...