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Its all about the Power Waz. My mate has a n/a skyline and he has done extractors, POD, ECU, Exhaust, he has even lightened the flywheel and variable cams. After doing all of this he still only made about 175HP (not KW) at the wheels.

gts25t4door,

if its all about power, why didn't you but a modified VL turbo?

would have cost you less than your R33 and would be much faster for the same price...

why do rich businessmen buy a mercedes when a modified GTR for the same price would be twice as powerful?

they buy the mercedes for the class and luxury it provides...

see my point?

i'm sorry i'll have to agree with warren on this one.

power isnt everything. sure its nice to have it, but to others it isnt a priority.

to put things into perspective, i have seen/know of an r31 with an rb30e, exhaust and alot of suspension work keep up/lead with r32/33 gtst's with alot more mods on the mountains.

another example is na_r33, when his r33 was still an rb25de, he was leading gtst's and gtr's through the mountains.

(and trust me these gtst and gtr drivers are not noobs)

sure in a straight line it would be a different story - but who cant drive in a straight line? at the end of the day - if someone can keep up/lead in an na r31 and r33, then the added "power" is just compensating for the driver's inability.

not to say that all people who have gtst's cannot drive, just that to others its not a priority and simply not important to stay ahead.

that said, the r31 is making slow progress with an rb25det going in, and well you all know john the bloody supercharged v8 bogan...

also a dyno read out is just a number...

I am not saying that there is anything wrong with a NA skyline. My point is that I purchased my GTST because I wanted a Skyline for its performance and looks not just its looks. I think that they are a fantastic car (NA or Turbo) and I also wanted somthing that I can mod in the future to become a "hi performance" car. I also like the better brakes and 5 stud wheels and the other extra features that the GTST has over the GTS.

My point is that I purchased my GTST because I wanted a Skyline for its performance and looks not just its looks.

No you see that's what they are trying to say. A car's "peformance" is not it's outright power. It's is everything about the car. Like said, u might see the NA skyline as a non-peformer because it can't hold it's own in a straight line drag, but that's only one aspect of it's performance. I had a quite modded gtst s2, put out just under 200rwk, and yeah it was awesome, not just in straight lines but the twistie stuff. Due to p plates and cop pressure i sold it and bought an NA s2. I can drive this car just as quick, if not faster throught the twistie stuff. IT's not as straight in a fast line, no, but i beat my mates up the mountain most of the time.

I guess we can all go bla bla forever...but at the end of the day if u want a straight line car, dont get an NA skyline. I'm not trying to say the NA is better cause i would prefer the gtst...but to say an NA isnt a peformance car is wrong

^^^what he said!

its just getting real annoying hearing the old "sell your NA R33... non-turbo cars are shit" attitude that's out there in the younger skyline community (not taking a dig at anyone specific here, its been around for a while)

its just plain immature and close-minded...

Its all about the Power Waz. My mate has a n/a skyline and he has done extractors, POD, ECU, Exhaust, he has even lightened the flywheel and variable cams. After doing all of this he still only made about 175HP (not KW) at the wheels.

Fark... He might need a re-tune...

From when I had mine dyno'd it punched out a fairly decent reading. Without a major tune, ecu work or extractors it pumped out 119kw at the rears... for a N/A, I didn't think it was too bad???

^^^what he said!

its just getting real annoying hearing the old "sell your NA R33... non-turbo cars are shit" attitude that's out there in the younger skyline community (not taking a dig at anyone specific here, its been around for a while)

its just plain immature and close-minded...

Hahaha... I've been coping that treatment!! :)

The only thing I would suggest, is if they feel like covering the insurance, than I would be more than happy to have one... But as it stands, I'm satisfied with what I have...

In my experience from obtaining quotes, insurance doesn't really differ THAT much between turbo and non turbo skylines. It's mainly the fact that they are an imported, 2 door sports coupe which are overepresented in crash statistics which determines the premiums.

Coming from someone who has an n/a and has done most of these mods, I would suggest the following:

Power

1. ensure your pod is receiving cold air flow and is partitioned from engine bay heat

2. get coby extractors & heat wrap them

Suspension

1. swaybars front & rear

2. replace castor rod bushes with polyurethane, or get adjustable castor rods which eliminate the bush

3. springs & shocks

4. strut braces front & rear

5. lock hicas

For an n/a at least, suspension mods are much more rewarding in my experience as there is more to be gained.

In my experience from obtaining quotes, insurance doesn't really differ THAT much between turbo and non turbo skylines. It's mainly the fact that they are an imported, 2 door sports coupe which are overepresented in crash statistics which determines the premiums.

Coming from someone who has an n/a and has done most of these mods, I would suggest the following:

Power

1. ensure your pod is receiving cold air flow and is partitioned from engine bay heat

2. get coby extractors & heat wrap them

Suspension

1. swaybars front & rear

2. replace castor rod bushes with polyurethane, or get adjustable castor rods which eliminate the bush

3. springs & shocks

4. strut braces front & rear

5. lock hicas

For an n/a at least, suspension mods are much more rewarding in my experience as there is more to be gained.

Thanks Greg,

That is some good info... I didn't really think of touching the suspension as its pretty smooth and I didn't want to knock it off the rails... so to speak.

As for insurance, I was quoted $5012 for a GTS-T, whereas im only paying $2850 for the N/A. So there is a bit of difference in that regard. Maybe when I hit 25 I might look into it...

But thanks for the info... Cheers mate

Thanks Greg,

That is some good info... I didn't really think of touching the suspension as its pretty smooth and I didn't want to knock it off the rails... so to speak.

As for insurance, I was quoted $5012 for a GTS-T, whereas im only paying $2850 for the N/A. So there is a bit of difference in that regard. Maybe when I hit 25 I might look into it...

But thanks for the info... Cheers mate

Was that Insurance through Just car?

  • 4 weeks later...

i have a r33 rb20e series 2 skyline. i have spent somewhere between 1000-1500 on mods and it is only cranking out 71.7rwkw on a hub dyno. its a dissapointing result but it has made me realise the difference between the rb20e and the rb20de. i think i still have gaind approx 10-15kw

my mods are coby extractors, pod and CAI, custom intake pipe, 2.5" mandrel bent cat back running factory muffler(full cat back system from a 25det).

i dont reccomend running a custom intake pipe as you lose a bit of torque that you will especialy notice on hills. but you do get a awesome sounding intake :(

i was running on 98 octane petrol on the day. i wasnt running advanced timing but i probly should have been. if you guys can see any thing wrong let me know

it sounds nice and still looks stockish. good on gas over 10km per ltr with plenty of thrashing.

i can still keep up with a stockish r33 25t on the windy roads. does straight line speed really matter that much?

im sure all of us would like to own a turbo skyline if it was the same as running and insureing a NA skyline. i had quotes of $1500 a year to insure my car with full insurance. but im from NZ :(

post-23121-1129163939.jpg

strange about the intake pipe... because you generally want to make car's breathe better, and thus more power.

70rwkw is a respectable power figure - but yeah at the end of the day the money you invest isnt going to give you much.

if you want to go faster - lose the weight, cheapest mod you can do.

fuel saving is a bonus =) might want to look into your exhaust?

turbo cat back?

strange about the intake pipe... because you generally want to make car's breathe better, and thus more power.

70rwkw is a respectable power figure - but yeah at the end of the day the money you invest isnt going to give you much.

if you want to go faster - lose the weight, cheapest mod you can do.

fuel saving is a bonus =) might want to look into your exhaust?

turbo cat back?

yeah it is strange and i thought it would help it breather better. seems to have helped up top. the extractors definalty bought back the low down torque.

but boy dus this car scream its head off. i love the deep sound it has and im happy with the power i have.

next time im at the dyno i will either put the factory air intake back on and see if that makes any difference or i will advance the timing a couple of degrees

the other thing i might look at is a rb25de intake manifold as it might be able to hold more air/ have better flow then my current one. i duno if it will work. ill just go get one from pickapart. haha

an apexi S-AFC is another way of gaining a little bit more power for not too much spent

but really the rb20e isnt worth spending money on. if i could go back i would have got a 4dr with a rb25de or det. factory manuals are a pain to find thats all

yeah i have been adding the weight with sounds. and as my car is a 4dr its bloody heavy. yea losing the weight is the cheepest but i dont really care bout going fast anymore. you get more looks, well the good ones when your going slow :(

yeah the stock system off a r33 gts25t mspec. so thats factory 2.5" mandrel bent. i thought it was crush bent meaning the flow would have been about the same as a 2 1/4" mandrel but i was wrong. i have had the cat taken out(not required in NZ) and a louverd resonator put in there instead.

if i do any more engine work ill just repalce it with a rb25de about 800ish or a rb20det $1500 for a nice one. rb25dets are expencive here. about $2000(basic motor missing parts)+ and you cant really get front cuts here.

Edited by BADR33

I have an Rb20E also, a good mate of mine said i will reach around 130rwkw on a 75hp shot... which is pretty impressive! Why dont you try this, full wet setup for $1000.

I was also thinking the rb20det setup, at this stage might even go rb25de but.

Dayne

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