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Curious to know what some peoples oil temps have been reaching in regards to being on the track.

Im not so concerend about daily driving as thats not my worry.

I want to know if reaching 120degree oil temps is rather acceptable when driving around a track.

I know it comes down to the type of oil you use too.

I currently use Softec Plus 5w/30 in my RB25

Anyone know how to work out or FIND out different weighted oils and when their lubrication properties start to break down?

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Curious to know what some peoples oil temps have been reaching in regards to being on the track.

Im not so concerend about daily driving as thats not my worry.

I want to know if reaching 120degree oil temps is rather acceptable when driving around a track.

I know it comes down to the type of oil you use too.

I currently use Softec Plus 5w/30 in my RB25

Anyone know how to work out or FIND out different weighted oils and when their lubrication properties start to break down?

From what I understand the viscosity of the oil is in no way indicative of the propensity of the oil to break down on a molecular level at elevated temperatures. More important is the maintenance of a lubricating film - which does tie viscosity to temperature. Unfortunately finding out this sort of information usually requires the services of a tribologist.

Best advice is buy an oil cooler...

Edited by djr81
  • 2 weeks later...
Curious to know what some peoples oil temps have been reaching in regards to being on the track.

Im not so concerend about daily driving as thats not my worry.

I want to know if reaching 120degree oil temps is rather acceptable when driving around a track.

I know it comes down to the type of oil you use too.

I currently use Softec Plus 5w/30 in my RB25

Anyone know how to work out or FIND out different weighted oils and when their lubrication properties start to break down?

We use Castrol Formula R Sythetic 10W60 on the track, and I try for less than 115 degrees at all times when in clean air. Can get to 125 degrees when close following.

Time for an oil cooler?

:wub: cheers :wub:

  • 3 weeks later...

i use penrite syn5 5w-60.

i had it at wakefield and after 4 laps 125 was not uncommon.

i have since fitted a 25row cooler in the r/h brake duct{have to redo plumbing-relocate bov,s} and soon another in the other one.

crusing it sits dead on 85. on the old pac it gets up to 110. it takes about 5mins to come back down, at speed

.

i should also note that some oil thermostates dont really work.

this is for the remote oil filter/thermostate blocks ive used.

i had a m..........cone...s one and i had to remake the valve so it actually put more than 50% thru the cooler once warm.

the washer that was suplied as the valve with a 3mm clerance arond it was replaced with a modified 1" welsh plug that seals properly and shuts of the bypass once warm. it works like a charm now. but i wanted a neater one that i didnt have to use sandwich blocks for guages etc.

so a hks type r one was used.

the hks one needs to be modifeid as well, to achieve more than 50% bypass. its a bit more complicated but, all you need to do is remove the thermostat {27mm bolt thing}and shim up the valve about 9mm or so!!!

and trim the spring the same. it took a couple of goes to get the right balance of warm up time vs cooler flow. but this spec works really well.

from my brief time in the decina spas v8 supercar development series pits.

i noticed on the live datalog screen the water temp sat at 85ish and oil sat at 85ish as well. i asked one of the mechanics and he said for every 5 degrees above 85 they lost 10hp.

now i know why they use such big coolers. and the gibson gtr had two 25 row coolers in the brake ducts all cowled in properly.

i know im craping on abit but im determined to get my gtr oil temp as stable as the water. :lol:

I have a big arse oil cooler mounted in the passenger side brake duct, it is properly ducted in there, and the rear splash guard has been vented to allow the air to actually pass through the core. on the track water temp never exceeds 82 degrees, and oil never above 90 degrees. this is in a GTR with stock tuirbos etc, putting out 250kw atw.

ferni, i reckon if you are hitting 120 WITH an oil cooler something is not working properly mate. where is it mounted? how is it ducted? oil coolers don't work too well if you just hang them somewhere on the front of the car, they need some thought put into the air flow. this is where you'll get a good gain.

My cooler sits in the front passenger side, where the stock intercooler for R33 GTST's sits. 16row HKS cooler with the thermostate and all that. I have the black plastic vented bit from a gtst put in the wheel well so that air can flow through.

90 degrees on the track? thats nuts, don't know anyone who gets 90 degrees on the track.

hehe, you know 1 guy now... me :P

it's possible that the thermostat is providing a restriction? some ducting in there would definately help too. other than that the only difference i can think of is ambient temp. these temps i'm talking about ambient temp would not have been much over 20, maybe 22. tracks, OP GP an EC. it does seem to be backed up by the coolant temp, not moving past 82 (read off PFC).

Can someone give me an indication of what the range is on the oil gauge for the R33 gts-t.. mine sits about 1/2 way around town.. than drops on the freeway when it's got some decent air flow.. As summer is coming was going to be keeping an eye on it and was wondering as I don't have the R33 owners manual (along with probably everyone else)..

cheers

Links: R33 gtst's don't have a standard oil temp gauge?? are you talking about oil pressure?

Richard: Yeah i've been out on track on cold days and still had it hit 120. It was raining last track day for one session and i hit 110.

Normal driving to/from work etc.. i get around 75-80, summer maybe 80-90.

I can vouch that a good oil cooler can keep the temp down around the 80-90oC mark even on the track. I have a Greddy 13 row installed and my oil temp stays around the 85-87 mark. But I do have to say I'm sure this will change as the QLD summer heat kicks in.

I've got an oil temp gauge on the left hand side of my cluster - it also has an oil pressure gauge on the right..

is the one on the left actually water temp?..

The gauge on the left of yoru speedo is the water temp gauge - just has C and H right?

Richard: wierd, i know other guys i race with (snowman,scottsman) both hit upto 120 as well. Maybe its just you NSW drives drive to soft :D j/k

Richard: wierd, i know other guys i race with (snowman,scottsman) both hit upto 120 as well. Maybe its just you NSW drives drive to soft :D j/k

that is highly possible. lol. Though in my last car i used to hit 140 before deciding that a few cool down laps were in order. but this GTR i just can't make it get that hot, though i'm generally only reving it to 7000rpm atm.

thats interesting. my gtr has the cooler all properly ducted and the splashguard cut away heaps.(25 row serek -10)

85-90 around town

gets up to 100-110 quite easily when given a hard time.

maybe i should check my oil temp guage? its a nismo mechanical one. :)

The gauge on the left of yoru speedo is the water temp gauge - just has C and H right?

Richard: wierd, i know other guys i race with (snowman,scottsman) both hit upto 120 as well. Maybe its just you NSW drives drive to soft ;) j/k

last time i was out at Sandown it was 30+ deg ambient, 250rwkW, serck 19 row(?) oil cooler in the passenger side duct.

130 degrees oil baby

100 degrees water

:):):)

I don't have a powerFC so never knew my water temp but it never moved on the std gauge from a touch under the middle. Getting a powerFC now tho so will know in future.

I've seen my temp get higher than 120 before i had an oil cooler.

so i wonder what the difference is between your GTR richard and ours down here. reving to 7,000 won't make a huge difference, its how long you're on the throttle (i would assume) i usually short shift too around 7,500rpm.

maybe i am just special? in a timmy kind of way. The kit i have is the BIG trust one, from memory it's still only 19 row though? also, it apparently has a thermostat but it's possible that it was gutted before i got it and this may help the flow through the core? Next time i'm out i'll check the temp at the core with the laser heat gun thingie we use. maybe my oil temp gauge is just fuxored.

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