Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, so im looking to get an adjustable cam gear fitted when i take my car to get retuned next week.

now most stories ive heard are people telling me to do the EXHAUST cam gear, and it helps keep the top end power, whereas the INLET does stuff all.

then today i heard form a reputable tuning shop that its better to do the INLET cam gear, as it helps low end power, and the EXHAUST cam gear is less affecting...

soooooo... which one is it? ideally i want a better low end, so adjustable INLET sounds the better option, but what are peoples experiences?

(and unless someone can get me a really good price on both cam gears, dont suggest doing both)

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87514-cam-gears/
Share on other sites

ok, so im looking to get an adjustable cam gear fitted when i take my car to get retuned next week.

now most stories ive heard are people telling me to do the EXHAUST cam gear, and it helps keep the top end power, whereas the INLET does stuff all.

then today i heard form a reputable tuning shop that its better to do the INLET cam gear, as it helps low end power, and the EXHAUST cam gear is less affecting...

soooooo... which one is it? ideally i want a better low end, so adjustable INLET sounds the better option, but what are peoples experiences?

(and unless someone can get me a really good price on both cam gears, dont suggest doing both)

cheers.

Common wisdom is that you will get a larger gain by retarding the exhaust cam than from advancing the inlet cam. So given the choice, do the exhaust.

However, for the extra $200 ish you may as well do both.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87514-cam-gears/#findComment-1580712
Share on other sites

If you have an R33 GTS-t, then changing the inlet cam gear is not so simple as it controls the variable cam timing. Therefore most people only change the exhaust cam gear. Some of the guys over east have been working on an adjuster for the stock R33 Inlet cam gear, allowing you to keep the variable cam gear, while allowing some adjustment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87514-cam-gears/#findComment-1581260
Share on other sites

Big difference. Loss of low end power. Try it out by unplugging the VCT solenoid plug. It's just above where the top radiator hose goes in.

That said - I haven't seen what an aftermarket inlet cam gear does. It might be all good. All I can add is that I did the exhaust gear and it helped bring boost on a little earlier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87514-cam-gears/#findComment-1582157
Share on other sites

Pretty easy to do, but if you get it wrong, then the timing will be out, and could do some damage. Only attempt if you know how to install your own timing belt.

I wouldn't remove the VCT, it's one of the best bits about the RB25's.

To tune the cam gear, allow 1-2hrs of dyno time. With stock cams the benefits are small, more worthwhile if you have a set of aftermarket cams to tune.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87514-cam-gears/#findComment-1582661
Share on other sites

Mitchy, i have a Greddy cam gear for sale if ya interested. Brand spanking, never come within 20m of an engine only a book shelf  :D. $180 if ya interested.

very interested, greddy is the one i wanted.. but they are $175 new from nengun.. any better price? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87514-cam-gears/#findComment-1584014
Share on other sites

I prefer to not do things by halves, and am going to do both at the same time when the time comes. And I'm not too sure on screwing around with the RB25 set up either!!

BTW Mitchy check your pm's!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87514-cam-gears/#findComment-1584370
Share on other sites

How does VCT go with aftermarket inlet cam? Or would you ditch it? can you ditch it? I imagine it wouldn't function as well as it should..

You can buy cams that are designed to work with the VCT, I have a set of Apex'i GT cams, 270deg 8.9mm lift that work with the VCT.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/87514-cam-gears/#findComment-1585217
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...