Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1 piece wheels are usually cast and usually heavy but probably better for all round on road use.

The 2 and 3 piece wheels are usually much better quality, forged and much lighter ie my 18x 9 Weds Sports Racing wheels with 265 35 tyres are lighter than the stock 16x6 with 205 55.

Hi,

Just want to get an opinion from those in the know.  Whats the big deal with three piece wheels anyways? Or two piece for that matter?  how are they better compared to one piece wheels tht can be bought at wheel shops in oz??

Cheers

Jon

A two piece rim is as good as a three piece, so don't get too hung up about it. A three piece allows the manufacturer to vary the rim offset& width without having to utilise a heap of different production options.

A two piece will usually be lighter than a one piece, because the transition from the centre section to the outer section is not dictated by casting considerations. One of the key criteria (for me anyway) when buying rims is their weight. The lighter the wheel - the lower your unsprung mass which is all to the good. You will find much of what is sold in the local tyre shops is ex China & some of them (Not all!) can be quite heavy. As with most things - you get what you pay for.

I always wanted to know that too. What arre the advantages of lighter rims?

Put simply, the main advantage from lighter wheels is a lower unsprung mass. The job of the springs/dampers/roll bars is to keep the wheel/tyre on the road surface. Obviously the lighter the wheel/tyre combination the less work the suspension has to do to keep them on the road. End result: more grip.

A secondary benefit is that it can reduce the vehicle mass as a whole. A light set of 17's can be up to 10kg lighter than an equivalent set of 19 or 20 inch rims.

I always thought that 2 and 3 piece wheels weren't as strong as say a forged single piece rim. I have forged Buddy Club P1's which are pretty light and tough as! Aren't say 2 piece rims composed of an interior piece welded on to the outer part of the rim? I'll bet it isn't easy to fix 2 or 3 piece rims, depending on the type of damage you have of course. 2 and 3 piece are much lighter but also usually more expensive!

"Games don't affect people. If Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms munching on pills and listening to repetitive music."

I always thought that 2 and 3 piece wheels weren't as strong as say a forged single piece rim. I have forged Buddy Club P1's which are pretty light and tough as! Aren't say 2 piece rims composed of an interior piece welded on to the outer part of the rim? I'll bet it isn't easy to fix 2 or 3 piece rims, depending on the type of damage you have of course. 2 and 3 piece are much lighter but also usually more expensive!

"Games don't affect people. If Pacman affected us as kids, we'd all be running around in darkened rooms munching on pills and listening to repetitive music."

2 piece rims have the centre section bolted to the outer, not welded. I have had mine repaired, you just have to unbolt the outer section first.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...