Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 90
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Farr out man that sucks.. All that from a bit of overboostin...

What exactly would have broken? Pistons etc (bottom end?)

Either way if ya need a hand lemme know. I'm not mechanically minded but I can solder, heat shrink and use zip ties like it's nobodies business! :D

Thanks guys. I'll be calling :)

Fatz. I've decided against RB30 due to clearance issues. I do not want to remove my strut brace or drop my subframe to make it fit and I can't think of any other way to squeeze it in there.

I will be taking pics for sure.

The strut brace is almost touching the bonnet already.  I would need to buy a Greddy front facing plenum and a new intercooler to suit which I certainly can't afford.

hey adam i work for st george,

want a credit card??

lol

hey adam i work for st george,

want a credit card??

lol

I curse the day I applied for a credit card from st george telling them I earnt $300 a week or something and they gave me a $9k limit...... I maxxed it twice lol... bad cc bad.

Adam - if the strut brace is the only thing stopping you then I wouldn't worry.. Just get the strut brace that goes from the strut towers back to the firewall and along it, rather than the one that goes over the top of the engine bay - surely there's many makers out there who have strut braces for r34s.

Plus if you build a rb30 I'll gladly helpya ... I need to learn as one day I'd like one of these engines... :ph34r:

I dropped my motor ~13mm.

A strut brace does fit providing the has the bar pass over the motor in front or behind the cross over pipe.

The sump doesn't sit below the cross member so its all safe.

Still... A pain in the arse though.

Slap a set of 26 rods in her with 87mm pistons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...