Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm a "computer wiz" and take photos in my spare time.

My father in law engineers/machines all kinds of engine race parts - if anyone ever needs something custom done just send us the specs. My brother in law is a mechanic and my brother and cousin are automotive engineers.

One day I'll get around to starting a race team...

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well first i thought it meant Rotary Hemi Electronic injection Twin Turbo

Then i realised it is just my first name wih Xs each side, like straight edge hardcore guys used to do back in the day. Hardcore as in <span id="MUSIC" class=xxxxkeyword onmouseover="onmo(this);" onmouseout="inMenu=false;hide(this);">music</span>.

Ive been working for the last 2 years doing autocad and Proengineer.  I can also use SolidEdge pretty well and work is soon changing over to Unigraphics, so ill soon have that down pretty well soon.

I can also use Fluent for performaing computational fluid dynamics problems and use Nastran/Femap for finite element analysis. Hows that sound?

Putting all that theory in uni in actual use in the work place is the secret. :lol:

have it already half full, and you've got yourself a deal

but you better get me maximum refund

$40 and you have a deal. PM me if you are still interested. Anybody else want any accounting work done for cheap $$$? Financial statements if you own a business? If anyone is interested, send me a PM and I will get back to you.

Edited by nikr33
$40 and you have a deal. PM me if you are still interested. Anybody else want any accounting work done for cheap $$$? Financial statements if you own a business? If anyone is interested, send me a PM and I will get back to you.

lol, well ill PM you at the end of the next financial year i guess!

Skybee, you should pick up where Auto-rust... sorry Autotrust :D left off, Danny used to do a fair few electical problem solving on SAU member cars. He's packed up shop these days though, and we constantly get guys who've just imported cars in VIC who want alarms fitted n stuff.

I'm a photographer.

Mainly shoot fashion/glamour style stuff ..... but dabble in a bit of product & sports photography at times (yeah to Comm Games coming up!! :D ).

And no guys, l don't need an assistant!! :lol:

I agree, someone should create a directory, so we can have our own mini SAU Vic trades and services directory. That way, we can all use each others services - giving us all more money to spend on our cars :D

There used to be a thread that had what everybody did for a job in it. inark started it late last year i think.

heh ..who is my daddy and what does he do?

1067969204kiga1.jpg

I'm yet another network & desktop support person who swings spanners (or tries to) in his spare time :P

I learnt to juggle at work the other day too :) though not very well...

i need someone to fix my auto elec problems. the car never starts instantly on cold start. its only when its cold it doesnt start straight away. if turn key to crank it just tries and tries and tries and tries and eventually works if i just hold the key to on for long enough. once warm no problem at all. powerfc doesnt appear to be the cause, had starting issues with stock ecu. have gtr33 pump, fuel filter replaced, tming belt etc all the stuff, plugs, 130k on the clock r33 series 2. anyone keen?

will pay cash as im over it not starting

EY, i work for John Blair motor sales, Honda/Alfa romeo dealership corner of chaple and high street, in the parts department so anyone who wants any honda or alfa parts pm me ill get you my staff discount its really good on genuine parts, non-gen probably not that much better than what most other people here can get

unarmed_skyline, so you'd know how to use Honda EPC (electronics parts catalogue) wouldn't ya? I can't seem to navigate around it, is there a cheat sheet of some sort?

i need someone to fix my auto elec problems. the car never starts instantly on cold start. its only when its cold it doesnt start straight away. if turn key to crank it just tries and tries and tries and tries and eventually works if i just hold the key to on for long enough. once warm no problem at all. powerfc doesnt appear to be the cause, had starting issues with stock ecu. have gtr33 pump, fuel filter replaced, tming belt etc all the stuff, plugs, 130k on the clock  r33 series 2. anyone keen?

hey paul,

got the same thing with mine too at the moment, but only started happening after i had bosch 040, pfc, avcr installed & tuned.

i've got a remote start that would occasionally take 2 goes to start before the tune, but the key would start it instantly everytime.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...