Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, it seems there's a bit of interest in the Cyberstork gauges, so after a bit of correspondence with them I'm organising a group buy for them, for sets that include an SAU logo.

Here is a sample of the gauges and what they look like:

R32 GTR:

gtr-32-01.jpg

Stagea:

stagea-wgnc34-01.jpg

R33 GTR (this is how you will recieve the covers):

gtr-33-w1.jpg

All gauges will have an SAU logo on them, unlike the ones sold by other resellers locally. Installation is relatively easy, with instructions for each and every model available. Please note that this is a thin semi transparent film that allows light through (NOT an EL or reverse EL sheet), and is intended to sit on top of your existing gauge's dial. The thickness of the film is such that the needle should pass over it easily (unlike some aftermarket EL gauges).

Gauge markings come in an option of two colours Blue and Red, you have to pick one of the two when choosing your dial. Blue markings show up better on cars with blue/green backlight (ie almost all nissans) and red ones show up better in yellow/orange/red backlights.

The following dial colour options are also available (but will cost around $20 more per option chosen):

1. Grey, Green, Orange, Pink, Light-blue, and Purple

2. On applicable models - coloured needle cover (some models have clear needles, that can take a coloured vinyl, like 180sx's).

The dials are translucent, ie they let some light through, which means if you use it in combination with an unmarked EL sheet, you'll get the same effect as a expensive EL gauge set. You can also use higher brightness LEDs in your gauges and coloured backlights to create special effects. The durfaces are mildly UV reactive as well, so if you were to point a couple of UV lights at your gauges they will glow.

The following models (that are relevant to SAU members) are available:

Stagea WGC34/WGNC34 1996 - 1998

Stagea WGC34/WGNC34 1998 - 2001

180sx series 1, transitional and series 2

Silvia S13, S14, S14a, S15

Skyline R32 Series 1 - HCR32 (ie GTE, GTS, GTSt), HNR32 (GTS4)

Skyline R32 Series 2 - HCR32

Skyline R33 GTS, GTS25t

Skyline R32, R33 GTR

and the R34 V Spec GTR

we can order toyota's, subarus and anything else cyberstork make gauge covers for... check here to see if your model is catered for:

Nissan: http://www.cyberstork.com/items/nissan.html

Toyota: http://www.cyberstork.com/items/toyota.html

Honda: http://www.cyberstork.com/items/honda.html

All others: http://www.cyberstork.com/items/other.html

when you post in this thread to regster your interest you HAVE to include the following:

  • Your name
  • The model of car - for example, if you have a R32 GTSt you will say "1992 HCR32 GTSt", and if you have a 180sx, you will say "1992 RPS13 180sx"
  • Options wanted
  • Any other details which you think will help expediate the process
  • I may depending on the response, get a batch done with Super Fun Happy Sliders and Team Wang Racing logos as well. (I won't be doing any other logos, so don't ask.) Please note in your response which of the three logos you are interested in, so I can keep track of interest.

Also looking forward to hearing any thoughts and questions you guys may have on these gauges covers.

The cost is estimated to be around $125 (depending on the number of units we get) plus postage (which should be around $10 at most within Australia). This may become cheaper the more we order. Any profit made will go towards the forums (we expect to make $2 - $5 per dial). Payment is upfront and once everyone has paid we will make an order. If there is an overwhelming response, orders will be done in batches.

Keep in mind these are covers for your gauges, not replacements, they DO NOT include gauges and mechanicals. Also, even though it is cheaper without the SAU logo, they are not as cool :D If you want to just get generic ones from cyberstork with no SAU logo, then please do not post here, as this group buy is ONLY for ones with the SAU logo.

As per the first post:

All of them will say SAU, if you don't want an SAU logo then buy em through a reseller.

In your reply, make a note if you're interested in the SFHS logo or Wang-R logo instead of the SAU logo instead, if there is a large enough interest I'll do a special order for those who are interested in them (no other logos will be entertained).

Hi,

I don't know alot about the dash of my car due to never needing to look around in there :D

If i was to buy one of these what else would be needed to actually install them ?

Or can you use the rest of the parts from your existing dash ?

you don't need any extra parts as such, just take out your cluster, slip the white face over the existing dials and reassemble. You'll need a stanley knife to cut out the faces though.

Although while you're at it you might wanna upgrade the lights in your cluster to something more colourful n stuff, but that's totally up to you.

Chris, is that for reverse EL gauges with SAU logo that light up in a colour other than metrosexual cyan or pink? :D

anyways, pics on an R32:

17.jpg

depending on what you do with the backlights:

with blue bulbs in the cluster (pretty eeasy swap):

147-2.jpg

with UV lights from the front:

143-2.jpg

red backlights:

137-2.jpg

with an EL backing

118-2.jpg

on a regular cluster it decreases the light by about maybe 5%

Hey Shane, i've got the nismo 260 and that shouldlnt matter right since this is only clear film?

Also can you shed some light about upgrade instrument lights while we're at it? Like which, where and do we have a pic of them white gauges at night?

Cheers

So what would the cost be for

White faced dials for S1 Stagea (97)

+ However many high brightness LED's there are in blue like in http://www.kumazon.com/cyberstork/customize/upimg/147-2.jpg

(i believe its four)

im pretty damn interested, want to get these ASAP coz i find my dash to be pretty damn dim...

Man, these look interesting...do a certain amount have to order one for it to go ahead?

how many sales do you need for the price to be $125?

are they easy enough to install?

do you think I ve asked enough questions yest?.... :angry:

The R34 GTR has 1-2-3000 rpm close together and enlarge RPM for the remaining....

If chuck that dash into a GTT, will the RPM work properly?

I mean let's say rev at 3000, will it be actually showing 3000rpm or 4000; where the position or 3000 should be?....

yah confusing...I cannot find any way to explain it better...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...