Jump to content
SAU Community

Triming Of Fan Blades With Fmic?

Damo

By Damo,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Damo Community Regular

Damo

Posted
Posted

I have read so many posts now on installation issues with the Hybrid FMIC. I am looking at getting one over the next week and want to know exactly what is required here.

Info req on S1 R33 GTST

Some people say you need to cut back the fan blades to allow the piping to pass back behind the radiator, other people say this is not necessary. Who has and who hasnt trimmed back the blades? And what about the balance on the blades, wont this get affected if it is trimmed back?

Also,

I have read you need to cut a hole through the body somewhere to fit the pipe through. What tools are required to cut into the body? Will a hacksaw do or should i go out and buy a drill?

Appreciate any help guys

Damo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89051-triming-of-fan-blades-with-fmic/
Share on other sites
Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted

Its not the fan blades, but the fan shround at the top, to let the piping cross over the top of the fan where it needs to be cut.

Also the drivers side inner guard needs a hole cut (depending on pipework size) if you want to plumb it that way. You can buy a hole saw to cut it out in one go.

Mine is done the way you are suggesting, and if i did it over agian i would just follow the factory piping route...i dont like my car all cut up :D

druzilla32 Mentor

druzilla32

Posted
Posted

i have had to cut the blades

you wont be able to cut the hole with a hacksaw.

you will need a circular drill bit.

also buy some small rubber tubing, and split it so its like a "C" and run it around the edge of the hole you drilled..

it will look neater and will stop any squeaking if the piping happens to touch the edge of the hole

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
I have read so many posts now on installation issues with the Hybrid FMIC.  I am looking at getting one over the next week and want to know exactly what is required here.

Info req on S1 R33 GTST

Some people say you need to cut back the fan blades to allow the piping to pass back behind the radiator, other people say this is not necessary.  Who has and who hasnt trimmed back the blades? And what about the balance on the blades, wont this get affected if it is trimmed back?

Also,

I have read you need to cut a hole through the body somewhere to fit the pipe through.  What tools are required to cut into the body?  Will a hacksaw do or should i go out and buy a drill?

Appreciate any help guys

Damo

Damo, if you are looking at a kit, you might want to check out this link

http://www.justjap.com/forumcoolerkitspecial.htm

To fit the kit you will need a 3 inch hole saw to create the hole in the inner guard.

Wether the fan blades need to be clipped or not depends on the kit you use and how its fitted. At worst a small trim on the edge of the each blade should be all thats required, and this wont cause any problems with the "balance" of the fan blades.

Cheers,

Nick

shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted

DONT NOT GET THE PIPING KIT FOR THE HYBRID FMIC'S!!!!

After 10 hrs trying to fit my hybrid intercooler kit (by a professional fabricator that use to work at a workshop) it was found that there was NO WAY IN THE WORLD that the pipes that come with the kit will fit a r33.

Now we even had to replace the clutch fan with a thermo fan to even make the top pipe look like fitting.

Then for the left hand side pipe, the one that comes out of the FMIC, woulda been 100mm too long, and woulda come out BEHIND the alternator.

This kit is the biggest piece of sh** money can buy.

So after 10 hrs of hard labour, all that we got done was a thermo install! :@

:END RANT:

Munna Rising Star

Munna

Posted
Posted

didnt have any issues with the piping on mine and yes I did have to trim the fan blades no big deal I have a r33 s1 with type M bar. I had it cut the bar support and the bar itself for the core to fit but piping ect lined up. my kit did come with clear instructions and was a genuine hybrid kit not a copy.

Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted
DONT NOT GET THE PIPING KIT FOR THE HYBRID FMIC'S!!!!

After 10 hrs trying to fit my hybrid intercooler kit (by a professional fabricator that use to work at a workshop) it was found that there was NO WAY IN THE WORLD that the pipes that come with the kit will fit a r33.

Now we even had to replace the clutch fan with a thermo fan to even make the top pipe look like fitting.

Then for the left hand side pipe, the one that comes out of the FMIC, woulda been 100mm too long, and woulda come out BEHIND the alternator.

This kit is the biggest piece of sh** money can buy.

So after 10 hrs of hard labour, all that we got done was a thermo install! :@

:END RANT:

Wow, dont know what you bought but it sounds like you bought one of the cheap craphouse kits that some backyarders have been offering.

The majority of the Hybrid style cooler kits being sold by respected traders on this and other forums are of avery high standard, however one or two traders that I have come acros s have had cheapo piping kits made up to drop their price which have exhibited terrible welding and a sub-standard finish

Im sure there is more to that story.

What kit did you buy exactly? and from whom?

LANFOH Experienced

LANFOH

Posted
Posted

I fiited my FMIC a couple of weeks ago in my garage with a mate, I had the cheap ass blue alloy pipes and a fake hybrid cooler, with a bit of patience it fitted perfectly, you will need a 3 inch hole saw and some basic tools. The trimming of the front bar is the most difficult to get perfect you just have to to it bit by bit. The cooler works perfectly with no leaks and im very happy with the purchase. you will need to trim the fan blades back alittle to clear the top pipe.

Heres a Pic:

post-14246-1127800422.jpg

ICER33 Community Regular

ICER33

Posted
Posted

i installed the hybrid gt spec fmic. these kits are crap. trim the fan blade? why do r&d sections of motor car companies spend thousands and thousands of dollars on perfectly balancing the clutch fan, its because it is one of the most integral part of the engine. its bull s%&t. i extended the mounting brackets to clear the fan and had to make some minor mofidfications to the actual pipng(by this i mean with the F?&king angle grinder) to make it fit. do your self a favour and by a kit that is model specific and not generic. its not the cooler dont get me wrong it works perfect now, but dont even think about following the instructions to fit the piping, there f&8ked.

ossie_21 Grand Master

ossie_21

Posted
Posted

I fitted mine today. :lol:

To that dude that couldn't fit it in 10 hours, that must have been a dodgy kit because there was no problems with mine. I was going to fit it at home but because it was so fricken cold took it to a workshop & did it there. Forgot the camera so couldn't take any pics for the tutorial I was planning. :)

I trimmed the blades, some people I have heard have done it VERY wrong. What you need to do is:

Standing with the engine bay to your right, trim the blades diagonally left to right. Adjust the pipe to see how much you need to take off, and mark them all as evenly as possible. You will see what I mean when you get ready to do it, looking back you don't even really need to take much off.

I'm getting a new front bar as well, my stock s1 bar has been savaged to shit. :) I will actually take some pictures now of it & you can get an idea of what's going on, if they turn out alright.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...