Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no support for air-temp on ecr33 powerfc, the hand controller shows it but the powerfc doesnt support it, where the airtemp hooks up on the rb26 powerfc the er34 powerfc has an empty wire pin but the ecr33 has a wire which is something else so it wont work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89430-air-temp-on-pfc/#findComment-1614344
Share on other sites

Can we adapt one though ?  im sure we can somehow!!!  does the computer support it?  can we adapt a sensor and wire it into the PFC ?

This will be a great mod IMHO

I have used inlet air temp connection on an R32GTST Power FC by connecting up an R32GTR sensor, good chance it would also work on an R33GTST. The RB25DET Power FC has an air temp correction table that can be accessed with Datalogit (and I assume Apexi Excel), however it isn't accessible with the Commander on the models I have seen. So the PFC software would appear to be able to support an inlet air temp sensor, otherwise it wouldn't have a correction table.

The intake air temp sensor is pin 36 on the R33GTR, so the first thing I would do is check and see if that pin is used on the R33GTST ECU plug. If it isn't used, then connect up an R32/33GTR inlet air temp sensor and see if it is recognised.

:) cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89430-air-temp-on-pfc/#findComment-1614817
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

the powerfc is burnt (smells bigtime bad) and the stock ecu does its normal thing but doesnt complete the start sequence somehow (no idea why).

i unplugged the water temp sensor and tried tapping it onto some of the empty spots on the ecu, after i tried a few i tried one more and then it died, i must have shorted two of the terminals together

my own fault

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89430-air-temp-on-pfc/#findComment-1658519
Share on other sites

crikey, i would be so p****ed with myself if i did that.

unfortuanetly i am going to say i would be suprised if this powerfc ever goes again, not all the circuits are protected that well in them.

being all surface mount as well will make it a prick to try and repair.

have you opened it, can you see the burnt out components at all?

man you must be spewing so hard? (unless your rich c**t i guess)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89430-air-temp-on-pfc/#findComment-1658529
Share on other sites

yeah im a bit pissed but tis my own fault for fiddling, no one else to blame

nah im not gonna open it, ive got a contact who can come and look at my car and sort out the starting issues, he can also repair the powerfc.

again it depends on what ive cooked inside it, could be one component or could be the whole board. if i have to buy a new one so be it, just learnt the hard way

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89430-air-temp-on-pfc/#findComment-1658545
Share on other sites

yeah its all good, just wanna get it fixed and then move on

hopefully ecu can be fixed too, no doubt its cooked to all buggery though

oh well the price to pay in the aid of experiementing and learning stuff :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/89430-air-temp-on-pfc/#findComment-1658572
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...