Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Aluminium doesn't corrode, because when exposed to atmosphere (air) it oxidizes (kinda rusts) pretty much straight away, preventing corrosion; it forms its own protective layer.

When you anodise aluminium, you use a electrical current and an acid (i seem to reacall) to increase the thickness of this protective layer. When this has been done the protective layer is porous, and can be dyed, any colour you want...

So you could have a pink FMIC, if that floats your boat :D

Not sure how much it would cost to do, and if they can just anodise the outside... i'd guess it wouldn't be cheap!

oh, and it shouldn't affect the performance of the FMIC at all (paint will, as it fills the small bits of the cooler with paint)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8954-stealth-fmic/#findComment-132447
Share on other sites

Originally posted by StraightSix

Black will actually improve heat transfer; this is the same reason that solar panels are always black.  You should be able to use black radiator paint which is designed to cover with a very thin coat.

J

yep, but black also absorbs heat moreso than white :uh-huh:

anodising would be the way to go, they'd probably just end up doing the whole cooler black as they just dip the thing in acid and add the dye.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8954-stealth-fmic/#findComment-132909
Share on other sites

Originally posted by ed

yep, but black also absorbs heat moreso than white :uh-huh:

That's basically saying the same thing ;) If heat transfer is improved, the intercooler will cool more if it is hotter than the ambient air, and will also heat the charge air more if the ambient air is hotter.

anodising would be the way to go, they'd probably just end up doing the whole cooler black as they just dip the thing in acid and add the dye.

Have to agree with that.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8954-stealth-fmic/#findComment-134472
Share on other sites

I have powder coated black mesh in front of my cooler, to both stop rocks etc and also hide it.

Does a good job for $30, only i dont know what i chould do about the pipes either side of it protruding thru where i had to cut the bar to fit it.:D

I'm not sure you'd want to anodise the inside of the cooler though; how fine are the fins inside?

The oxide layer is something like 0.05um thick, if anodizing adds the same thickness again (i think less) then i dont think it would present any sort of restriction.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8954-stealth-fmic/#findComment-135572
Share on other sites

i'm not a 100% but when i was a tschool the teachers always used to relate to aborigines or even those little tribes ppl of the Gods must be Crazy. ie; they are better suited for the heat.

this is getting a bit off track tho'. prbably has nothin' to do with FMIC or radiators.

it is a good kwestion to start with tho'...

Rhys..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8954-stealth-fmic/#findComment-137731
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be worried about having to parallel park a boat like that. Magnificent car though.
    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
×
×
  • Create New...