Purchasing An R31

[muteLABS]

Hi everyone, new to the forums. I'm just after a bit of advice due to not being able to believe the words spoken by friends about cars, cause 90% of the time it's bullsh*t lol.

To my Question,

I'm looking to purchase an R31, but I have no idea as to which model is good, and would meet my budget of $5000, I can go a little bit higher than that but i'd rather not. So any suggestions of what models to look out for, and what specific questions related to the car that should be asked e.g. "Was that radiator replaced, as most models have had problems". etc stuff like that, thanks in advance!

[Ghostrider]

As a non R31 admirer, I would suggest a series 3 cause they look the best, that would be 91, 92 model I think. The single headlight version with the droopy nose bonnet. Import optical headlights are available for this model and they work and look heaps better than the stock ones.

In Australia we only had sedans & wagons locally made and delivered, but there have been a couple of series 1 GTS cars on offer lately for that sort of money.

You may be lucky to find an import coupe for that much, but it would be rare or need lots of work, the odd Passage GT crops up as well, but the trick is don't be impatient, take your time because there are some real nice R31's out there and with our fuel prices ever heading skywards, they can only get cheaper as everyone heads for smaller, more economical 4 cylinder cars.

You should be aiming for the highest quality you can for your money and luxury was a Ti, and sporty was the Silhouette or GTS options

As for questions to ask, I don't think there is much to ask other than the basics today, as you get what you pay for in most cases. Stay away from the yards unless you are desperate, as any car over 10 years old or with over 160K does not carry warranty, so why line the pocket of a car yard when you can get it straight from an owner or auction at a similar price the yard is paying.

That's my thought anyway.

[D-limo]

Definately go an import turbo if you got 5-6k...I recently sold my s1 Passage GT for $4500, rb20et auto in good nick.

All import sedans will give you the pimp pillarless design, higher equip levels usually including automatic wipers/headlights and other random shit, and generally more plush int. (especially Passage GT)

Later model 'Red Top' Turbo engine equiped are really the only one's too look for. Hard to find in manual though. 142 odd kw off the op of my head. (2 litre 6, DOHC)

There's a schweeeet black GTS import on the for sale thread atm for $6000 ono.

"Its a 4dr GTS, NOT PASSAGE has 162xxx genuine k's on an rb20 nics. Before being sold will have R32 silvertop steel wheel turbo fitted. The car is automatic, i had a manual conversion planned but unfortunately couldn't go ahead with the plans.

The car also has an alpine head unit, with fusion 6" component speakers, pioneer 12" sub in box, and 500W sony xplode amp.

So far i've put in iridium spark plugs, and had all 6 injectors cleaned and flow tested.

Also has lowered king springs, projector headlights, pod filter, and is running 10psi.

Selling with RWC and about 4 months rego left.

Im open to offers, but nothing too drastic.

Im in Toowoomba, QLD"

This is a very reasonable price for an import GTS in this condition...

gl anyway

r311.bmp

[racsov500]

$5000 is a good budget as you have plenty of options

1. Import coupe/sedan.

2. Special edition local GTS1/GTS2.. rare and prized cars by the r31 community

3. A local r31. 5k will get you a minter, or one with some good mods. you could also buy a dead stock one for about 2k and put the rest in mods

slide247.. thats GTS31 (morgans) car from the r31 forums.. and yes, that is my dream car (auto aside). its soooo beautiful

[rsx84]

with that budget you should ask yourself what YOU want cause you can pretty much get anything r31 wize, with a few exceptions, gts1 or 2 should set you back a bit more than 7-15000. i'd say look for a looked after Silhouette ($2500-3000) and spend the rest on suspension,leads, plugs, pod filter, extractors and exhaust...

an example for you, this one has had some work done

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=31978.0

[342Four]

ummm

as a r31 skyline maniac

definetly go for a s3 r31 - later model 88 to 90

ie look for ones where the bonnet doesn't go straight across - the s3 bonnet goes down below the top of the lights

better looking body and better suspension than the s1 and s2

if uve got 5 grand go for a sillo as rsx84 said or even an Ti

try get ones with a lsd and man tranny as they are tops

just watch out for dodgy diffs and trannies

if auto take it for a test drive and check gear changes - with powershift on and off

watch out for rough changes from 1 - 2nd and sometimes 3 - 4

drive it hard a bit (ie 50 kays then flatten it) and make sure it drops back a gear and then pushes up back into ur seat

check gear changes after driving it hard as they sometimes might get sticky or even stuck (ie stuffed or dodgy shyncros)

check body roll (ie drive round tight corners and check movement in body)

if lowered check springs for cut springs as that is very dodgy plus a very big insurance problem if u hurt or kill somebody as they can blam it on a home chop job

when u check it out make sure the engine is NOT hot as this may mean that there is an oil problem (dodgy lifters, cold start problems)

dont worry if the engines ticks as this is normal

it shoulg go tick tick tick tick tick fairly constantly and repetitivly

if it doesnt ask if its got new lifters - if not then ask if its got a new head

do the usual stuff - check oil (should be black or red not thick and chunky and glugy - unless its due for a oil change soon), check tranny fluid (should be no friction material or metal specks in it or smell burnt - if there is then dodgy gbox)

check diff fluid (again should not smell burnt or metal specks or friction material)

ohh and when driving - let it coast at about 20 kays an hour and then press the accelerator down about half

if big clunkin noise then tailshaft loose in diff or diff bearings are on there way out - may mean new tailshaft or diff

check for diff whine - it usually does a bit - but if excessive then bearings are shot and rebuild required or new diff

i think this about covers it actually

i'll post a pic or too of our car and show ya what the s3 looks like

[racsov500]

Most people like myself just buy a s1/2 and convert' it to a s3 with hotplates, boot garnish and a s3 frount. Its easier and probably cheaper just to buy a s3 straight up. If your after an auto it will be ALOT easier to find a nice clean car in any variant you want. Look for a TI as there the top of the line and only in auto- if you going for auto you may as well take advantage of the situation and get a car that you cant if you want a manual.

as far as im aware it was only the silos and GTSs that had LSD from the factory.

[342Four]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/46781788@N00/49308539/

mid 89 s3 skyline executive

note the bonnet how it dips after the lights

has better looking body than s1/s2

Edited October 4, 2005 by usherly

[rsx84]

this is my r31 S3 gxe

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a240/rsx84/1b38a519.jpg

[racsov500]

ooooh projector headlights!

those came on the import version, and bolt straight in.

[rsx84]

the good thing about the S3 aus r31s is all the good stuff from the coupe can bolt in , i've got the projector head lights, front auto spoiler and a set of front struts (larger brakes) comming, new aftermarket parts are not that expensive too.

Edited October 4, 2005 by rsx84

[tigeryas]

you'll also find a lot (i mean A LOT) of info on all series of R31s at www.r31skylineclub.com

hope that helps

edit: oh yeah, rsx84... his link should do it

[R31Nismoid]

dont even bother with an import... 4500 - RB20et, you'll cry forever

the RB30 is much nicer, cheaper to repair and more reliable than the early moder RB20et/det

The red tops have a lot of electrical problems. Some dont, but most do

5k will get u a decent one for sure.

[342Four]

saw in a street commonwhore mag a guy with a vl commo with a rb30et 306.6 rwkw with stock tailshaft and diff

not bad

[0HR-30T]

dont even bother with an import... 4500 - RB20et, you'll cry forever

the RB30 is much nicer, cheaper to repair and more reliable than the early moder RB20et/det

The red tops have a lot of electrical problems. Some dont, but most do

5k will get u a decent one for sure.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I disagree. B) The imports are far better cars than the local versions, and despite the fact that RB20's suck ass,can be made to go ok with the usual mods,and much cheaper than to get the same perormance out of an RB30E. Really it depends on your driving style,and what you expect out of the car.

[wal]

Hey I'm new to this forum.

I brought a S3 R31 Sillouette 12 months ago for $5500 RWC and so on. Best car I ever got. Pitty it was an auto, Manuals are very hard to find. I got hold of a awesome manual from an RB20 NA motor. Best I've ever seen. Did the conversion over a weekend and it went awesome. The only other thing I have done is stereo and Pod filter. Actually saves fuel just cruzing which I do cause I'm a Tight A on fuel.

I reckon you can't go wrong with an R31, go a series 3, SIL cause its nice inside and its got the LSD and trip computer and of coarse they look better than the early ones. Ti's have elec windows rather than the LSD. (I think)

Someone mentioned you can get and alright Sil for around 3500, If you can grab it. I lloked for ages and only found mock up sills and GTS usally with the LSD changed to standard, trip coputer removed and of coarse AUTO.

I just go myself an R32 and may sell the 31 next month. If you have not got one yet it and are still interested it's R31 S3 Sillhoutte, GTS stainless extractors, awesome 5 speed, stero, LSD, 210,000, new shocks, king springs, new bushes under(makes a massive difference with handeling), rwc, 6 months reg. 5k good condition throughout.

wal

[Ghostrider]

Sh!t, for a near on anti R31 member, at least I got something right.

S3's are the go eh! geez it only took the ozzy faction 4 years to get something still not as good as it's predecessor. Interesting to say the least.

I suppose we can thank Mr Frazer for this monumental stuff up eh!

[discopotato03]

Hmmm , don't know if Freddy Gibson would agree with that . R31 GTS-R was a better Grp A car than the DR30 .

IMO Import for its semi trailing arm IRS and R200 , it depends on if you want it to handle better than you're average wheelbarrow full of custard . If you aim to hot it up the IRS/R200/better brakes become essential to prevent the lead tipped arrow syndrome . For basic transport buy the local barge .

Cheers .

[Ghostrider]

Hmmm , don't know if Freddy Gibson would agree with that . R31 GTS-R was a better Grp A car than the DR30 .

IMO Import for its semi trailing arm IRS and R200 , it depends on if you want it to handle better than you're average wheelbarrow full of custard . If you aim to hot it up the IRS/R200/better brakes become essential to prevent the lead tipped arrow syndrome . For basic transport buy the local barge .

Cheers .

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Ya splittin hairs now A, I am referring to the stuffed local car that Mr Frazer so insisted had to have such a huge local content to conform. I think it was 80% or near.

[discopotato03]

Sorry , a bit short ATM . The B/W (R/S) rear end and local Girlock brakes were 80% of its failings . The engine and gearbox were the only saving graces and we know where they came from .

Cheers A .