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there's nothing wrong with ngk platinums too, they work fine..

not if your playing around with tuning and crap.

i'd rather crap a set of $15 plugs vs a set of $100 plugs.

Ive never seen the platinums last a full 100k, something always lets go before then that will foul the plugs.

simple thing like a fuel reg causes it. I had it happen twice.

Wouldnt go back to em.

guys I can't find copper tipped "7" heat range ANYWHERE!

can anyone help me?

NGK stopped their line of copper "7" plugs in favour of the platnium plugs that cost much much more...

Are their any other brands that anyone can suggest?

"I'm looking for the Bk's but they don't exist as NGK took them off the market, and left the platniums on obviously to make more money, and apparently the BC's cause misfire issues in Skylines (as posted earlier).

Also, I called Coventry and they said to use these -

ngk - pfr7b - $22 per plug (the original plugs from japan are ngk - pfr5g-11).. But they are still $22 a plug!

So no ideas on a reliable, cheaper copper range? I'd prefer copper, if I was going to be forced to get expensive plugs again, I'd just get the iridiums - they took the biggest mofo of a beating - Toluene, octane boosters, tequila and all sorts of shit that went into the tank. Never used platniums before, and plus I'd really like to go cheaper plug so I can experiment without destroying my wallet any further... Because if the 7's go ok.. I'll be tempted to try 8's...Anything to beat this pre-ignition with a stick.."

What about the bcpr7es as opposed to the bkr7es, the only difference is the length of the plug really. i run bcp's in my 25.

I think that may have been what cubes was getting at as well.

EDIT: Who said bc's cause misfires in skylines? rb20 and 26 both use bc's from factory (obviously the platinum ones) and i have never had a missfire issue that could be blamed on the type of plug.

I've seen a couple of cars that didn't like copper plugs at all though...

Edited by BHDave

"Well, I've looked at the denso range and apparenty Toyota and ford dealers stock them. I'm confused though... There are so many different types.

I want a "7" heat range in the Densos, and if you use the part finder on denso (excellent tool btw)

Original Plug : ngk - pfr5g-11 - Denso - PK16PR-L11/PK16PR11 Guy from Coventry's recommended : ngk - pfr7b - Denso site says this si the equavalent - PK22PR8 But there is also a ngk - pfr7b-11 - Denso - PK22PR11

What with the 11 on the end? The Original NGK's had an 11 on the end?

What is the 11 for?

Would the pfr7b NGK without the 11 on the end and the equavalent Denso still be ok?

Wtf?

People are telling me some all over the place things.

So can any recommend a plug in the denso range that would be a good mix?

Looks like my choice will be denso because they still make copper plugs to whatever you want.. And they'll be cheap, for me to experiment with."

"What with the 11 on the end? The Original NGK's had an 11 on the end?

What is the 11 for?

Would the pfr7b NGK without the 11 on the end and the equavalent Denso still be ok?"

The 11 on the end is the plug gap ~ 1.1mm. Those without a number at the end will generally have a smaller gap, for NGK i think its 0.8mm! Denso i don't know.

I managed to get the only NGK plug that suits my car in the "7" heat range -

BKR7E.

This is what I posted in the other thread about spark plugs -

ok...I just did the biggest lot of finding this week...

Normal plugs for a Skyline RB25det -

You want the BKR6EYA's.

If you want to go a colder heat range, and stay in Copper, and NGK, get the BKR7E's.

As for Denso, IK20's for Iridium (Same as NGK "6" heat range) or the IK22's for Iridium Denso plugs (same as NGk's "7" heat range)

Denso copper - K20R-U - (same as NGK's "6" heat range)

Denso copper - K22PR-U (same as NGK's "7" heat range)

Use this tool, its the best I have ever seen.

http://www.denso.com.au/sparkplug/xref

Good luck finding any of the denso's you are after though.

here's a few tips also -

1. If the plug has a "-11" on the end, its gapped to 1.1 mm. If it has nothing on the end like this, its 0.8mm - 0.9mm gap.

2. Some have longer necks than others so be careful.

3. If you're running high boost and are running into pre-ignition problems, try "7" heat range (colder plugs) or 22 heat range in denso.

well, I fitted the BRK7E's and there is no running difference between the "6" and "7" heat ranges when it come to starting etc.

Won't know if they are any better for detonation until I get the car tuned.

Yesterday, I borrowed a mates Wideband O2 sensor and went for a LONG drive. Got someone else to drive and hold various throttle positions and managed to move my cruising fuel economy from 200kms per tank to 400kms per tank.

done 190kms so far, and guage is a bit above half way. Wonderous joys of the wide band o2 sensor.

I am going ot make one of SK's cheap ones I think. Rent the f**ker out to pay for it.

heh...

ok, I have another question for my quest for low end power and stability:

Does this sound ok -

1. RB30DE Non turbo block

2. Get a cheap set of standard pistons, and re-ring them, and hone the bore.

3. New Big end Bearings

4. Standard head gasket, so the Compression is 8.3:1

5. Weld up the VCT and make and external Line for it

6. Slap on my RB25DET head (should Bolt Straight on)

7. Lower Engine Mounts 15mm

8. Drop motor Back in car

9. Grab Datalogit and O2 Sensor and go to town on the bitch...

Sound like a better idea than getting a water methanol kit?

Questions:

1. How much more power do you think I would achieve?

2. How much boost will the standard RB30 pistons take before splitting in half?

3. Would I need a bigger snail from it being restrictive above 6000rpm

4. Do you think I could make more than 250rwkw on 95ron fuel?

5. Could it be an expensive practice?

I can't afford to install $1500 worth of forgies... So don't tell me to get them.. Standard would be fine. The standard rods should hold right?

so many questions..

Cubes, you got any information? I've read your RB30DET DOHC doco about 10 times :D Its great.

so yeah.... Let me know...

Fuel is my major problem here. Only got 95ron. I want torque, and about 19psi (cause thats the efficiency range of my turbo).

Sky30 has a completely stock (2nd hand) bottom end with 300,000 on it. He slapped a rb25de head on it (untouched) with a gt35r and is making 312rwkw.

What you are asking is possible, its all in the tuning. The 95 ron may just mean less timing. Power depends on the turbo being used. My rb20highflow should be capable of about 240rwkw (but coilpacks are stuffed) currently on 218rwkw.

I hardly rev mine over 6k, even though my tuner says it still pulls over 6500 to 7. 3k max for day to day :)

Your only trouble would be the vct supply (make sure to research it as i think there was oil supply isses somewhere)

Its cheap (as you have most parts) and the bottom end power will make you not regret it....oh btw...welcome to the dark side :D

:(:D

is it a turbo or non turbo bottom end?

What kind of boost is he running?

hehehe yeah the dark side sounds good. I just figured I could spend 1k on a water meth kit, or 1k on a 3l bottom end that would do the same job, if not better...

3l sounds good too

Maybe I'll get new standard slugs, and get it all balanced, rev her to 7k :D

Edited by The Mafia

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