Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday to all you R32 guys...

I have an R32 GTST and after say 10mins of highway driving at say 70km/h+ my car feels as if it loses its rear grip for a half and instant - scary stuff. My HICAS light then comes on.

I have deduced with the help of my new mechanic that it is the HICAS system changing the steering direction of the rear wheels. When you first start up the car apparently the rear wheels steer in the opposite direction to the front but after several minutes of driving they revert to the same direction as the fronts / / to / /

/ /

if you know what i mean...

My question is... does your R32 suffer this herendous and sh#t scary tail wag as it changes??? When i say scary i mean drift style sideways (so it seems)...

Your feedback is much appreciated...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/8970-r32-gtst-hicas-scary/
Share on other sites

Mine's fine, never had any probs with it in the last 14 months. My hicas light used to come on but it was caused by a leak in the power steering pump. The light is only a warning to tell u if its not working. The hicas only moves the rear wheels something like 1.5deg either way depending on speed. Hope this helps :D

Mine does the same thing. I have almost taken out cars when you get caught in rydges in the road. Bloody scary.

My hicas light is on and my steering has gone heavy. I think it might be the power steering solenoid down near the rack.

Let me know if you sought it out.

Doc

Cheers guys...

yeah Doc, that's it - it goes really heavy and sometimes my car actually stalls if it occurs at slow speed.

I remember now that my mechanic said it had something to do with the aftermarket steering wheel i have because the sensor is apparently linked at the steering wheel and when they fit an aftermarket jobby it screws up the system somehow.....

Haven't had any problems with my HICAS on the hwy. Did save me from a great mess once though when I saw a turnoff too late and hooked it hard left at (undisclosed)km/h.... Instead of sliding off the road and into that big tree...I was carried merrily on my way & into the corner - felt bloddy wierd!

When I first start the car, I have to turn a left & right a little before the steering becomes light again.

Also If I idle the car for too long the HICAS light comes on. I've tried running the diagnostic, but it wouldn't work :confused:

MY R32 gtst won't show the hicas light at all. Full stop. There is no light from what I've seen. It seems to turn o.k, but i've NFI if the 4ws is actually working or not. The computer is still plugged in under the rear parcel shelf, the rack is still there, all of the hydraulic lines are still there... I dunno?

Steve

mine isnt really disabled properly it just doesnt work lol

im waiting for Dr-Drift to come over with my pineapples so i can pull the plug on the hicas and disable it properlly... but if u ask me... its a hell of a lot better... i hate how it pulls to certain sides when driving before it stops working... even before i stuffed it i hated the feeling it gave when turning.

Had the same problem and took it to givin wood on the gold coast.

The problem was the steering selector for the hicas.

It seems that there are two types and on one the selector is at 38 degrees so that at speed the thinks it is in a permanent left turn. this problem is only fixed with the correct part or by a hicas lock kit.

  • 3 weeks later...

I've never had any issues..

Just a question for all those who are saying that they have a hard to turn steering... have you checked the power steering fluid recently?

Have you changed it at all?

As for the drift pineapples... they do not do anything for the HICAS. I believe that they are simply for stopping axle tramp, and allowing you to set your car to drift a bit more stable.

The only way to disable HICAS on our R32's is to get a proper lock kit.

You can't just disconnect the computer cause that means that the rear is then able to turn 1.5 degrees in any direction the road drags it.. NOW THAT would be scary.

When your HICAS is working properly, it only works when you are traveling above 80kms. And it ONLY works to turn the rear wheels in the SAME direction as the front to make lane changing on the highways, a smoother process.

So this thing about your mechanic telling you that it turns opposite at low speeds and same at high speeds is false.

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...