Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just to add, I blew a rear turbo on my GTR (ironically, the day I bought the car... way to start my love/hate relationship with skylines!) and replaced them with 2530's. A week later I blew a gearbox but it sounded like something had gone majorly wrong in the engine, so took it to a workshop and they reported it as a dead engine. Long story but after being stripped and taken to another workshop, was diagnosed with a destroyed gearbox (hooray for 3rd gear!).

Anyway got the engine rebuilt since it had been pulled from the car anyway, and there were only two scoring marks inside the engine which was on the top of a piston and on the bore of the same cylinder. This happened from a snapped valve guide. Aside from this the engine was in suprisingly excellent mechanical condition for 75000kms old.

Must just be a luck of the draw thing as to wether or not your engine gets destroyed by ceramic dust. The argument for it happening seems valid, so I do believe it to a certain extent, but personal experience steers me otherwise as well.

As for R34 turbos, I was also 99% sure they were still ceramic. However, that being said I have seen a V-Spec which had steel wheels and heard of another V-Spec having steel wheel turbos too. These were both extremely low km cars and unmodified. Also heard rumors floating around some V-Specs/V-Spec II's had steel wheels, some didnt (along the same lines of Nissan toying with ball bearing turbos in the S15's).

But, someone who owns an R34 has said theyre ceramic, so I wouldnt push my luck and treat them as ceramic... nothing sux more when you pop a turbo, push the go pedal again and realise you have an RB26DE.

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I put GTR 34 turbos on my RB25. Front turbo let go and compression in 1/2/3 is 25psi compared to 150psi in the rear 3. They are ceramic turbines, and they let go at 5psi. Not happy Jan! Haven't been able to fix the car since it died in Feb.

snowies old turbos?? LOL he must have given them a good trashing

if the ceramic "dust" issue truly does exist, then i have no problems in admitting my sources were wrong. the debate it seems will continue :)

and regarding the exhaust wheel materials, i'm going to do more research into this matter because i refuse to believe that its a simple wrong/right answer. it is entirely possible that nissan spec'd different turbos on different r34's but i'll try to get to the bottom of it. a safe assumption we can conclude from this debate is to CHECK before you boost your car. if there is evidence of ceramic -or- steel wheels in these turbos its better to be safe than sorry.

cheers

d

if the ceramic "dust" issue truly does exist, then i have no problems in admitting my sources were wrong. the debate it seems will continue :)

and regarding the exhaust wheel materials, i'm going to do more research into this matter because i refuse to believe that its a simple wrong/right answer. it is entirely possible that nissan spec'd different turbos on different r34's but i'll try to get to the bottom of it. a safe assumption we can conclude from this debate is to CHECK before you boost your car. if there is evidence of ceramic -or- steel wheels in these turbos its better to be safe than sorry.

cheers

d

How are you going to check when still in the car ?

.

Edited by wrxhoon
How are you going to check when still in the car ?

I have the turbos that came off my M-spec 34 and they are NOT steel wheeled , i have seen 3 other sets of earlier ( series I ) 34's , 2 V-specs and 1 none V-spec and none are steel wheeled . The Nur-specs that i saw in japan had ajustable actuators as well as steel wheeled turbines .

i'm not going to "look" at them at all. i am basing my answers purely on the knowledge i've gleaned from various publications and online research. like i said, i'm happy to accept that i'm wrong IF I AM WRONG, but don't get your knickers in a knot by misinterpreting my comments as stating ALL R34 turbos are steel. you've clearly demonstrated with your own turbos that they arent ALL steel and i therefor stand corrected and indeed i am the one smoking funny stuff... :huh: .... BUT!!! what of the cars that DO have steel wheels? what numbers were released from the factory with steel-wheeled turbos? were they the same basic turbocharger or did they have different sized wheels hence different airflow characteristics??? and most importantly, WHY did nissan change to steel wheels on certain models (if they did) and what're the results. this IS a forum not a scrag-fight and should be a learning experience for all. :)

cheers!

d

Yeah they came off the dragon (R34 GTR V-spec) but he kept them under 1.1 bar so they never pushed too hard, about 260rwkw.

I discussed it at length with Benno and he suggested that the GTR turbos will mostly fail after being removed and replaced, or in cases of severe heat shock such as start up and go hard straight away, or sometimes without any real reason, so it's possible some carbon was dislodged during the mod, striking the turbine. I'm not blaming Snowie for it. Bens experience was 2/3 of GTR turbine failures would result in ingestion of ceramic dust and given the cost of rebuilding them GTSS or 2530's are a better investment. Fortunately my GTR has already had steelies installed for a nice 260rwkw on the stock computer and was a major consideration at purchase.

As for Nissan producing the 34's with odd turbos on the non-Mspec models, stranger stuff has happened on other models but I somehow doubt it on the GTR.

i'm not going to "look" at them at all. i am basing my answers purely on the knowledge i've gleaned from various publications and online research. like i said, i'm happy to accept that i'm wrong IF I AM WRONG, but don't get your knickers in a knot by misinterpreting my comments as stating ALL R34 turbos are steel. you've clearly demonstrated with your own turbos that they arent ALL steel and i therefor stand corrected and indeed i am the one smoking funny stuff...  :huh: .... BUT!!! what of the cars that DO have steel wheels? what numbers were released from the factory with steel-wheeled turbos? were they the same basic turbocharger or did they have different sized wheels hence different airflow characteristics??? and most importantly, WHY did nissan change to steel wheels on certain models (if they did) and what're the results. this IS a forum not a scrag-fight and should be a learning experience for all. :)

cheers!

d

I'm quoting your post number 7 i think this is what you said

"what crack are you smoking? the r34 standard turbos are steel wheeled. this is WELL doccumented " Did you not say that ?

Edited by wrxhoon

Before this gets further off track, I expect we have answered James original questions but to clarify: max boost, stick to 1-1.1bar and you should be safe, but note they can fail without warning at lower boost figures.

I'm quoting your post number 7 i think this is what you said

"what crack are you smoking? the r34 standard turbos are steel wheeled. this is WELL doccumented " Did you not say that ?

okay mate. i'll dignify you with a response. like i said. "misinterpreting my comments as stating ALL R34 turbos are steel. you've clearly demonstrated with your own turbos that they arent ALL steel and i therefor stand corrected"

Well the 34 standard turbos are NOT steel wheeled , i speak from experiance NOT what i read .

The only 34 cars with steel wheeled turbos are N1's and NUR's or the ones that have been changed !

And NO i'm not geting my knickers in a knot looks like you maybe .

mate i'm not going to get into a debate over something so whimsical. you proved your point. i proved mine (that there is differences between r34 turbos disregarding n1 spec turbos in SOME CASES). your time is much appreciated in what should've been a "discussion".

so

cheers!

Edited by djhatton

The ceramic contamination does seem to be completely random.. it would take some hard physics and experiments to prove it though I would say..

One example I remember is having a R32 GTR blow a rear turbo, did a check and all seemed fine! So a new turbo went on and it was taken for a test drive. The owner had hooked up the boost controller all wrong so the first time the car came onto boost it over boosted and POP!... another turbo wheel gone. This time the car had problems... yep 3 cylinders scored badly.

We have had people blow a turbo and replace it and keep driving only to wonder why the car never seemed right..

Some cases are bad.. some only get a slight scoring some appear to have none at all.

I love mystries :D

all previous turbos before r34 were ceramic. i've never heard nor seen anything otherwise. anyone seen anything (non n1) that wasn't ceramic on 32/33??

d

So...I've got an idea. Maybe you should be sure about what you say before you flame someone who is right...

So...I've got an idea. Maybe you should be sure about what you say before you flame someone who is right...

I would add to that , maybe he shouldnt flame anyone , especialy when they know what they are talking about .

okay mate. i'll dignify you with a response. like i said. "misinterpreting my comments as stating ALL R34 turbos are steel. you've clearly demonstrated with your own turbos that they arent ALL steel and i therefor stand corrected"

mate i'm not going to get into a debate over something so whimsical. you proved your point. i proved mine (that there is differences between r34 turbos disregarding n1 spec turbos in SOME CASES). your time is much appreciated in what should've been a "discussion".

so

cheers!

You are very funny dude , if you didnt start with this crack business , i wouldnt even bother commenting on your reply .

Edited by wrxhoon

i will add that i hate all you guys! i have sleepless nights now worrying about when my poor little san-ju ni turbos will let go claiming my rebuilt RB26 with them..

hmm, i guess it's possible i already have steel wheeled turbos. When i got my car there was mention on the old rego papers of improved turbos, which was interpreted as reffering to the HKS actuators i have. but i guess they could be steelies, though to me they look stock from the outside. i guess the only way to know for sure is to pull them off and hit the exhaust wheel with a hammer. if it cracks appart they are ceramic, if it just dents the wheel it's steel. hahahaha

in the meantime i will just keep running my 14psi and praying to allah that nothing happens to my engine :P I don't really want to go to the lengths of replacing turbos atm.

i will add that i hate all you guys! i have sleepless nights now worrying about when my poor little san-ju ni turbos will let go claiming my rebuilt RB26 with them..

hmm, i guess it's possible i already have steel wheeled turbos. When i got my car there was mention on the old rego papers of improved turbos, which was interpreted as reffering to the HKS actuators i have. but i guess they could be steelies, though to me they look stock from the outside. i guess the only way to know for sure is to pull them off and hit the exhaust wheel with a hammer. if it cracks appart they are ceramic, if it just dents the wheel it's steel. hahahaha

in the meantime i will just keep running my 14psi and praying to allah that nothing happens to my engine :P I don't really want to go to the lengths of replacing turbos atm.

If your turbos have been rebuilt they would be steel wheeled , you dont have to smash them to see if they are steelies , if you take them out you can tell .

Maybe someone just changed the actuators though .

If your turbos have been rebuilt they would be steel wheeled , you dont have to smash them to see if they are steelies , if you take them out you can tell .

Maybe someone just changed the actuators though .

yes, i guessed it's probably just HKS actuators on stock turbos.

Jerry, i was joking about hitting them with a hammer to check if they are steel or not! :P

i will add that i hate all you guys! i have sleepless nights now worrying about when my poor little san-ju ni turbos will let go

You and me both. Its bizarre that a couple of grand on new turbos suddenly seems like "cheap" insurance :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...