Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 months later...
  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 6 months later...

U blokes are ledgends i also had the pleasure of destroying my coin box for a turbo timer... im looking at the fuse listing goin... ah its all in Japanese anyway *GRIND NOISE*... >_<

Thanks a bunch

  • 10 months later...
can anyone elaborate on what "electronic accesiories" is ? like anyone had it blow and been linked to something not working? just wondering aye

Yep, on series 2 auto at least, bottom-right "electronic parts" fuse runs the central locking & I think the key remote receiver. It blew when I shorted one of the central locking power connections when I was installing my alarm/immobiliser. Twice.

  • 3 months later...

Hey guys, first post, not even sure if i'm doing this right!!! Anyway, just recently bought an m35 250t rx four in white pearl. So far im loving it. Just a question to see if anyone knows where the headlights and/or driving lights fuses are located? My driving lights were working when i picked the car up but now theyre not. Thought id start with the fuses. :D

you mean the yellow foggies in teh front bar? I think they are disabled as part of compliance, but you said it worked when you picked the car up?

Hey guys, first post, not even sure if i'm doing this right!!! Anyway, just recently bought an m35 250t rx four in white pearl. So far im loving it. Just a question to see if anyone knows where the headlights and/or driving lights fuses are located? My driving lights were working when i picked the car up but now theyre not. Thought id start with the fuses. :wave:
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 months later...

You are all ruining my thoughts. And I love you for doing it.

I have a sticker on the coinbox, with a different setup. I tried to pull the 4wd fuse after i've read i can do it for a short time, but nothing happened. I wondered if i had got it wrong and it wasn't posible, but i must have a sticker for some other car...

Thank you so much for sharing all the information in this forum. :D

DONT PULL THE 4WD FUSE and drive mate!!!

It will fry clutch parks after short period of time!

Okey? :banana:

What i've found when e read about it it was good for short drives, but not a day at the dyno.

I thrust you in the same time i get curiuos how nissan could build a car that destroys the clutch if i fuse breaks.

But i will take your advice and not pull it out. :P

  • 2 years later...
  • 2 years later...

posted before but here it is again, S2 fuse box translation.

I know this is an old post, but I've just had the lights behind my speedo, tacho, and dials in the central column go dark in my s2 stagea (ie the cluster lights).. Not so good when you are driving at night as it makes seeing your speed dificult..

Looking at the fuse translations I checked 'meter', 'electrical parts' x 2, and room lamp (just in case) and they were all fine (pulled them out and checked with the meter..) - does anyone have any idea what other fuse I should check or any other thoughts on what the problem might be??

Ian

Edited by ian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...