Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking at a 33 gtr, im just wondering, whats the build quality like in these cars? are they solid?

also are they reliable? do they require much maintenence? do they need much work if theyre near standard (ecu, exhaust, filter)

what are some common problems in r33 gtr's?

also what do you think is the best way to buy? imported or buy from someone private?

how does the r33 drive? is a good street car? can it go one track? how does it compare to say an evo 7?

cheers

Build quality is good. The RB is very strong and mod friendly.

Reliable depends how well maintainted it is and how far you push it. its a sliding scale.

if its near standard doens't need much more work than any other car. oil changes every 5,000ks with good oil etc....

Common problems, dont really know... make sure you get a compression/leakdown test before buying... don't pay any attention to km's on the clock most imports have been wound back.

Would you feel comfortable blowing ~40k on a car you've never seen or driven? i know i wouldn't, i'd prefer to buy local first, but if you can't find what you're after local you could look to import...

I drive my R33 GTR to work daily and track it on club track days without changing anything, drive on track, race drive home etc... but mine is pretty standard...

evo7 never driven one can't say sorry.

To give you some idea, stage 1 mods on a GTR includes exaust/cam gears/ecu/more boost on std turbos and you'll make about 250rwkw.

i would say the gts-t is a much better street car than the gtr

The gtr is more of a track car. It is laggier in stock form than the gts-t is.

The evo 7 is a much newer car and you will probably find them to be in better condition than the r33 gtr

Build quality RB26DETTs are great engines. The only downfall with the GTRs are maybe the maintainence costs. You got 2 turbos to look out for. It is an AWD so many more moving mechanisms?

Near stock standard they are really fast enough. Zorst, ECU, injectors, up boost and you can go pretty damn fast.

If it is a daily, then you might need to look out for fuel consumption. They take quite a bit of fuel.

Not many GTRs that are for sale now therefore choices are minimal. You can try importing one :D

I was under the impression that if you were too Import a car it would be considerably Cheaper than buying one in Australia.

Aka - 40k for a 33 GTR in AuS

-20-30k For a 33 GTR from Japan

Obviously you flip a coin to see if you get a good one or a Lemon from Japan but am I wrong about pricing?

ive been doing alot of hunting, it seems imports are alot cheaper, so i guess this just means we need a broker that can be trusted, and looks at the car over there inside out and maybe even does mecanical tests? is there such thing? i think imports101 does something like this, anyone else?

GEARBOX SYNCHROS.......the 33 GTR seems to eat synchros, you probably won't notice it on a test drive as it only seems to occur once the gearbox is very hot (and believe me it gets fooking hot, girlfriend thought I kept leaving the heater on), the upside is that it heats your drafty garage :P You will likely notice the gears crunching from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th. There is a temporary fix which involves using Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil but ultimatley you'd need to have the gearbox out and replace synchros (they're only a couple of hundred bucks but it's the labour that kills). Other than that watch out for fake V Spec's and very standard cars as they're sometimes ex raced ones that have had standard bits put back in. Don't let these things put you off though, I've had mine for 10 months now and I absolutely love it, it only cost as much to run as you want new shiny go faster bits!! I'm addicted to modification so spend all my expendable income on it....with no regrets :)

G'day mate,

I found this stock '96 HR33 GTR V-Spec down in Sydney, pretty good price compared to what I've seen around, thought it might interest you if you're looking at buying one locally (I was going to but my loan requires the car to be 8 years or younger :rolleyes:).

Click here

Question, does anyone know the kw of a stock HR33 GTR? Or of all Skyline models?

Cheers.

Edited by SHT HOT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...