Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking at a 33 gtr, im just wondering, whats the build quality like in these cars? are they solid?

also are they reliable? do they require much maintenence? do they need much work if theyre near standard (ecu, exhaust, filter)

what are some common problems in r33 gtr's?

also what do you think is the best way to buy? imported or buy from someone private?

how does the r33 drive? is a good street car? can it go one track? how does it compare to say an evo 7?

cheers

Build quality is good. The RB is very strong and mod friendly.

Reliable depends how well maintainted it is and how far you push it. its a sliding scale.

if its near standard doens't need much more work than any other car. oil changes every 5,000ks with good oil etc....

Common problems, dont really know... make sure you get a compression/leakdown test before buying... don't pay any attention to km's on the clock most imports have been wound back.

Would you feel comfortable blowing ~40k on a car you've never seen or driven? i know i wouldn't, i'd prefer to buy local first, but if you can't find what you're after local you could look to import...

I drive my R33 GTR to work daily and track it on club track days without changing anything, drive on track, race drive home etc... but mine is pretty standard...

evo7 never driven one can't say sorry.

To give you some idea, stage 1 mods on a GTR includes exaust/cam gears/ecu/more boost on std turbos and you'll make about 250rwkw.

i would say the gts-t is a much better street car than the gtr

The gtr is more of a track car. It is laggier in stock form than the gts-t is.

The evo 7 is a much newer car and you will probably find them to be in better condition than the r33 gtr

Build quality RB26DETTs are great engines. The only downfall with the GTRs are maybe the maintainence costs. You got 2 turbos to look out for. It is an AWD so many more moving mechanisms?

Near stock standard they are really fast enough. Zorst, ECU, injectors, up boost and you can go pretty damn fast.

If it is a daily, then you might need to look out for fuel consumption. They take quite a bit of fuel.

Not many GTRs that are for sale now therefore choices are minimal. You can try importing one :D

I was under the impression that if you were too Import a car it would be considerably Cheaper than buying one in Australia.

Aka - 40k for a 33 GTR in AuS

-20-30k For a 33 GTR from Japan

Obviously you flip a coin to see if you get a good one or a Lemon from Japan but am I wrong about pricing?

ive been doing alot of hunting, it seems imports are alot cheaper, so i guess this just means we need a broker that can be trusted, and looks at the car over there inside out and maybe even does mecanical tests? is there such thing? i think imports101 does something like this, anyone else?

GEARBOX SYNCHROS.......the 33 GTR seems to eat synchros, you probably won't notice it on a test drive as it only seems to occur once the gearbox is very hot (and believe me it gets fooking hot, girlfriend thought I kept leaving the heater on), the upside is that it heats your drafty garage :P You will likely notice the gears crunching from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th. There is a temporary fix which involves using Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil but ultimatley you'd need to have the gearbox out and replace synchros (they're only a couple of hundred bucks but it's the labour that kills). Other than that watch out for fake V Spec's and very standard cars as they're sometimes ex raced ones that have had standard bits put back in. Don't let these things put you off though, I've had mine for 10 months now and I absolutely love it, it only cost as much to run as you want new shiny go faster bits!! I'm addicted to modification so spend all my expendable income on it....with no regrets :)

G'day mate,

I found this stock '96 HR33 GTR V-Spec down in Sydney, pretty good price compared to what I've seen around, thought it might interest you if you're looking at buying one locally (I was going to but my loan requires the car to be 8 years or younger :rolleyes:).

Click here

Question, does anyone know the kw of a stock HR33 GTR? Or of all Skyline models?

Cheers.

Edited by SHT HOT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...