Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
looks good mate

got my boost controller ;) should be in this weekend :D

Nice to see you're settling into the skyline scene... car is looking the goods also.

GTR UPDATES:

Block has been all machined, all the component balancing has been done and almost ready to be assembled

got ACL bearings to go in and CP Pistons

also the head is being reconditioned as it was a bit worse for wear aswel.....just my luck

pretty much everything in the engine has been replaced or freshened up....

also i have to go on:

Garrett TO4Z 700HP turbo

Speed-flow oil/water lines

Turbosmart 50mm Wastegate

Extreme turbo manifolds Highmount manifold (top notch work)

Custom Dumpipe

Greddy "y" afm pipe

few other bits and pieces, its getting there slowly, Just doin the engine bay in gloss black at the moment aswel.

still alot of work ahead... :D

righto, havnt done this in a while, or at all for that matter

anyway, just finished putting my new hks gtrs turbo on the 32, along with sard 550cc injectors, adjustable cam gears, timing belt and water pump.

now its down to what ecu im gonna chuck at it, a rb26dett power fc is looking the goods at the moment, heard from damo that with some small changes she'll run alright! (will contact you damo when ive got he coin to buy one, so you can show me what i gotta do exactly! :D )

hopefully it will be half reliable and more club days and some drift days to come

righto, havnt done this in a while, or at all for that matter

anyway, just finished putting my new hks gtrs turbo on the 32, along with sard 550cc injectors, adjustable cam gears, timing belt and water pump.

now its down to what ecu im gonna chuck at it, a rb26dett power fc is looking the goods at the moment, heard from damo that with some small changes she'll run alright! (will contact you damo when ive got he coin to buy one, so you can show me what i gotta do exactly! ;) )

hopefully it will be half reliable and more club days and some drift days to come

yep do some research on the injectors + power fc match up and it should be sweet. i may also be able to help with the tuning side of things to.

  • 4 weeks later...

my new car...

100_0009.jpg

back in the skyline game, i am pretty sure the motor is close to rooted (rings only hopefully) but will just go through the motions to nut out exactly why it is using a butt load of oil and will sort it out.

all in all, pretty happy with it, R33s are so nice to drive!

i should have another skyline by next week, looking to secure a series 2 gts25t from either melbourne or japan if i luck out on the local market.

for now though the rx7 cage and interior are painted...

c1.jpg

c2.jpg

c3.jpg

Thats a nice looking 33 Todd!

I cant say I've driven a 32 or any other Nissan, but I love the way my 33 feels on the road.

On an update note, in the process of putting on a FMIC, just need to grab a nipple for the cooler piping/boost actuator and a large whole saw :blush: will have tomorrow.

I fired up my 25/30 tonight. It sounds pretty tough. It took just over 7lts of oil and over 11lts of trans fluid for the auto

did you happen to change engine biulders half way through the 25/30 biuld project.

my new car...

100_0009.jpg

back in the skyline game, i am pretty sure the motor is close to rooted (rings only hopefully) but will just go through the motions to nut out exactly why it is using a butt load of oil and will sort it out.

all in all, pretty happy with it, R33s are so nice to drive!

got some 18's that would cool on this car 4sale

Fuel Pump ordered, and Split-Dump/Front pipe just arrived.

Intercooler is completely on, and I know that they arnt actually suppose to make any more power, but the car feels stronger. Definitly more pull from 4500-redline, and the induction sounds better too.

The bottom end was from pro engines as ronnie was to busy at the time i wanted to do the build as it was mean to be ready for powercruise. So he has done all the head work to suit and to fit up the auto.

I dont know how long this engine will be in the car for as im looking into a 3.4lt stroker kit for the rb30 :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...