Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ah ok then, the fpr has a gauge if that's what you mean I think it sits on 4 -5 psi I don't know about them tho

they shouldnt be tampered with unless you have a wide band oxy sensor ect

But the base fuel pressure should be around 3.5 bar. and rise under load.

if its 4 or 5 bar (big difference) than its probably squirting 10-20% more fuel into the car.

you have 2 options. replace the reg with the stock unit or wind the pressure back. do this at your own risk as you also have the potentual to lean the motor out by doing this as well. if it was my car id have a play with it and see.

Hey autumn I have a safc2 for sale, 250 delivered as new condition with all wiring etc. This will allow you to tune your fuelling and run a z32.

Also if your relying on a drift brand air fuel ratio gauge to tell you what the cars tune is like, your headed in the wrong direction. One of those gauges won't tell you much at all, you need a proper wideband a/f monitor.

I've got some interesting problems with my R33.

Problem #1 When I brake the pedal goes straight to the floor, then upon having a 2nd stab at the brakes it'll be fine, good feel and pulls up fine. Giving the brake a left foot chicken tap before braking doesn't seem to help.

Problem #2 with the brakes, when I'm doing a burn out and having the left foot on the brake the pedal get really hard and pushes my foot off the brake and eventually the brakes stop working and the car will just go forward. (obviously doesn't want to do skids lol)

Problem #3 Steering is really really heavy sometimes, all morning at drift practice it was f**king and the car didn't self steer at all, not when sliding, not when transitioning, not when crusing around the corners in the no drift part of the track, you turn, the wheel will stay at that angle until you change it, and it's so heavy only the hulk can steer it. This problem randomly went away in the afternoon of the drift festival but came back when unloading the car off the trailer. Car is a NA conversion so it doesn't have HICAS.

Suggestions?

I'm thinking the braking problems could be because the NA Brake booster doesn't like being turboed?

probabaly silly question, but have you checked and bled the powersteering fluid?

Checked yes, Bled no, that's this weekends job.

that sounds just like my brake problem.

you can pump them up to hard. Then as soon as you take your foot off its soft as shit.

If I pump mine up it'll stay pumped.

Yours sounds like leaky lines. Had that problem in old Suby wagon.

ive bled them but still no go, did it again yesterday, might look into some braided lines or something :)

Are you doing it right? I remember trying to do it on my old motorbike and constantly f**king it up but not knowing any better.

whats the right way?

i do it like this

pump the pedal till its hard then get who ever to open the caliper nipple then they close the nipple once the pedal has hit the floor

is that the right way lol

Edited by Autumn33

I've got some interesting problems with my R33.

Problem #1 When I brake the pedal goes straight to the floor, then upon having a 2nd stab at the brakes it'll be fine, good feel and pulls up fine. Giving the brake a left foot chicken tap before braking doesn't seem to help.

Problem #2 with the brakes, when I'm doing a burn out and having the left foot on the brake the pedal get really hard and pushes my foot off the brake and eventually the brakes stop working and the car will just go forward. (obviously doesn't want to do skids lol)

Problem #3 Steering is really really heavy sometimes, all morning at drift practice it was f**king and the car didn't self steer at all, not when sliding, not when transitioning, not when crusing around the corners in the no drift part of the track, you turn, the wheel will stay at that angle until you change it, and it's so heavy only the hulk can steer it. This problem randomly went away in the afternoon of the drift festival but came back when unloading the car off the trailer. Car is a NA conversion so it doesn't have HICAS.

Suggestions?

I'm thinking the braking problems could be because the NA Brake booster doesn't like being turboed?

1# bleed your brakes

2# you need to have a 1 way valve between the booster, and the plenum. You either don't have one, or it's stuffed (pretty commen), one way valve will fix your problems. But remeber, the booster can only hold so much vacume, so depending on the lenth of time your on the brakes, your pedal will get harder.

3# could be your rack, and/or pump.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...