Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

another one? :( i think a mate may have one if you haven't got one already,

Yep....had a speedo cable for 2-3 weeks. Time for a few more nights in the shed :unsure:

Edited by TJHill

look forward to seeing this splitter :yes:

haha nothing too fancy mate, going for a bit of a industrial look. I'm actually making up something very simular to Brad sheriff's, and Peter Nunns. except i'm going to run 4 adjustable turnbuckle braces from the front coming down. I'll post up pics when I'm done :ninja:

haha nothing too fancy mate, going for a bit of a industrial look. I'm actually making up something very simular to Brad sheriff's, and Peter Nunns. except i'm going to run 4 adjustable turnbuckle braces from the front coming down. I'll post up pics when I'm done :ninja:

build mine as im lazy and dont have time? :P ill pay you with a bucket load of... sarcasm and ridicule :P

ohhh sounds like a scam lol. Last fibreglass bar i worked on was Pisko's 350z bar after he stacked it at symmons. I'm still trying to get rid of the glass splinters haha. I'm not a fan but i need a whoop ass splitter, Mr Plow spec and its not going to build itself =)

ohhh sounds like a scam lol. Last fibreglass bar i worked on was Pisko's 350z bar after he stacked it at symmons. I'm still trying to get rid of the glass splinters haha. I'm not a fan but i need a whoop ass splitter, Mr Plow spec and its not going to build itself =)

you going 40ft wing to balance out the car if you build a splitter?

I've got a pair of genuine n1 adjustable cam gears if you don't want shiny hks/trust ones, or cheap and nasty ebays.

Dave 0409 631 092

haha im broke dave, if u have them in another month or so i'll be interested :thumbsup:

Hi guys. Thought I'd post up a few pics of my front bar repair/mod progress. My front bar had a few decent cracks and had a fair size chuck missing on the lower front left hand corner so i went hell for leather with the glass. i chopped the bottom of the bar off level as the bar was lowest at the rear so it would of made the splitter sit up at a nasty angle. I've used ally sheet as the splitter itself. its 700mm deep and protrudes past the bar 5 inchs in the middle and just over 4 at the corners fadding back to inch at the sides. the ally is bolted to the bar in the middle and at the rear corners and i have just test fitted the 4 turnbuckle braces also.

just finished buzzing back the paint on the major surfaces and i have scotched the rest of it and i have put a light dust coat of etch over it as guide coat really, going to rub it down now with 400 ready for 3-4 coats of primer.

not going to be crazy fussy as its more of a prototype, looking forward to getting it on the car and eventually I'll buy a new bar and go again.

I've basically tried to replicate what is on Peter Nunn & Brad Sheriff's R32's.

cheers

post-47373-0-17111100-1310451551_thumb.jpg

post-47373-0-99569900-1310451560_thumb.jpg

post-47373-0-72412800-1310451572_thumb.jpg

post-47373-0-87377900-1310451583_thumb.jpg

Nice job! But for the ground effect to work you need to roll maybe two thirds of it up so that it's basicly like an upside down wing, if you look at V8 super cars you'll know what I mean. That's what I plan to do with mine, when work permits. Just my thoughts :blush:

Nice job! But for the ground effect to work you need to roll maybe two thirds of it up so that it's basicly like an upside down wing, if you look at V8 super cars you'll know what I mean. That's what I plan to do with mine, when work permits. Just my thoughts :blush:

Thanks wogboy. yes my plan is to tig or bolt two brackets at the back of the splitter and run some straps up around the sway bar with a 10mm thick anti vibration foam stuck to the splitter below the K frame. that way i can pull it up tight and if i run the straps I have here they have clips so they can be quick release should i want to get the bar off easily. I dont really want to mount it solid at the rear but I will if i have to.

looks awesome jack! i think you should make mine :blush:

ohhh I'm all splittered out atm lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...