Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't really want to trade sorry Brian , the only reason im selling is because i honestly have too much sitting around and it's gotten over my head with the workload . Not that there is very much to do to purple , i just need to simplify things a little . If you look in the 4 door section on this site in members rides i just put up a quick list of some of the stuff the car has , id put it here but cbf on my phone . Basically it's a strong 250rwk ish setup

haha nope I like it way to much, after much swapping after getting rid of the sileighty i finally found another car i really like. so its not going anywere till it gets a defect then ill grow some and take it to the track & try to drift :)

little update on it, I had another crack at sanding my cam covers & almost have a mirror finishnow

removed the valley cover & made a bracket for the ignitor

made a cai & pod enclosure

Edited by Autumn33

31 is alive!

Just as well i didn't send the gf off to uni in it tho, i left the afm unplugged and took me a while to figure it out

anyone got a 33 clutch fan that they want to get rid of? i wanna piss this thermo fan off (will swap if you want, has temp controller and relays and stuff but i think the temp controller is dead)

picked up my lexan screens today, arrived along with Burgz's kit.

got it home, have drilled the passenger side screen and fitted the OEM stops, mount studs & roller. great to work with.

rear screen weighs about 4460g

sides screens weigh about 2150g

and rear qtr screens 730 g

OEM side screen weighs about 4700, so less than half the weight. fitment is spot on.

also bought another pair of wheels the same as what i have on the car, but same size and offset as rear.

changed G/box fluid from penrite sin to smurfs blood, leightweight shockproof, instantly silkier.

so ticked a few little things of the todo list. desperate to finish it but the boat ate a big chunk of my funds this month, dammit! not too much further away.

post-47373-0-33770200-1337667959_thumb.jpg

post-47373-0-24611000-1337667978_thumb.jpg

Edited by Mr. Untouchable

got another tire for the 31, watanabe's are back on all round and looks a lot less bogan now (had stockers on the rear)

also found out that they are deffinately welded together :( but still 3 peice

this puts getting the fronts made into rears on the back burner which is sad

IMG_20120522_162742.jpg

IMG_20120522_162801.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...