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Has anyone used this or know of anyone who's used it?

Or any experiences with other Japanese full counter balanced cranks?

For the price id expect it to be pretty special.. any comments appreciated.

I am aware that a 3litre can be built for similar money so lets keep comments on the stroker kits and Jap brand counter balanced cranks!

cheers

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Which stroker kit? The Step I, II, III or high-deck? Each handles more and more power, but the price increases accordingly as well.

They are good up to their rated hp limit, but for the step I and II, I believe you can make something capable of holding the same power levels with less outlay. I dont think the extra 200cc's will make a massive difference in turbo response times etc.

err, then why the f**k would you do it?

Oh thats right, I forgot it came with a counterweight steel crankshaft, forged conrods, forged pistons... now where did I put my $12,000 packet of 200cc shake-and-bake...

I said "massive" difference, it would make a difference but people who go "omg I have an extra 200 corn chips, my turbo will now spool 3000rpm earlier" need their head read.

Edited by Amaru

well lets forget about the price for a moment, i want to hear from anyone whos experienced one. Officially (not counting internet purchases direct from Japan) HKS australia has sold only six 2.8L kits in the whole of Australia. Would love to hear from one of these owners!

i got a JUN 2.7L billet crank and its sooo smooth it looks fake honestly. and it weighs exactly the same as the stock crank.

havent built the motor yet, so no info on usage. 11K rpm should be alright though :(

Xspeed in perth has a 2.8L hks stroker gtr

www.xspeed.com.au

cheers

Brad

post-20455-1129542236.jpg

post-20455-1129542309.jpg

Edited by StageZilla

thanks champions! that is a gorgeous looking crank! Im just about to source a 2.8 for myself, but running GT2530's. Where are you located Gav? would be great to see your GTRS results and especially how the motor feels at those high revs.

Edited by SLY33

i dont have a 2.8 crank,just the standard one.

from what i can see the main advantage of a "full counter crank" whether it be forged or billet is you get rid of most of the nasty rb26 destroying harmonics.

so that oil pump can take the extra rpm and not explode.

even beter is if they come with a nice big damper(ati superdamper etc)

the extra 200cc is a nice trade off.

Gav is from perth too but travels 99% of the time from what ive seen :lol:

good to see three of the counterweight crank rb26s are from Perth :angry:

and the JUN crank is rated upto 13K rpm but ive been told to goto 11k to be safe :D

Edited by StageZilla

yer i think the main thing with 2.7-2.8 litre RB27-8 is that they really can handle huge rpm 11500-13000 which means even more crazy head work then the motor its self which is why most people are using 3l kits for daily driven cars.

my 2c

Brad

i think japan would get the rb30 blocks if they were soo crash hot and brilliant, but obviously they know they aint very good at high power and thats the reason they have these $20k kits instead which are built for the power from scratch, not from a vl 6 banger family hack engine, which is along way from a rb26 in any stretch of the imagination as being a performance built engine.

compare apples with apples ;)

The Rb26 was built as a high performance motor to start with, so saying rb30's are like a family hack engine, could be the same for rb25's or rb20's.

Im not into the theory of it all, but dont most engine builders strive for what they call a "square" motor? Which the rb30 is ideal..ie 86x86

I think Japan would use them, but like Duncan said they dont have them lying around for $100 a pop....

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