Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just about to get my r32 back from the turners with around 230rwkw at the wheels but because I use the car for drift I think that Ill need to put a new gearbox in.

what I want to know are there any other options other than an rb25 box? will a VL turbo box fit?

Before you comment I have done a search & couldnt find the right info

Edited by PALADN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91391-rb20det-gearbox-possibilities/
Share on other sites

You can fit any gearbox if you have enough time and money....

I'd think RB25 is going to have the best combination of strength, cost & ease of conversion.

I've seen another guy convert a GTR box to RWD to save a few bucks, but the comment was something like if you can't do the fabrication work yourself then it's not worth it compared to the RB25 box

Edited by browny

yes a 25box is a good idea. the syncros a only a bit more efective but. if u smash the gears with button clutch it will pop.

a good one is the 34gtt box. beter syncro design and uses a bigger clutch.(250mm vs 240mm but pull type)

to fit it in the tunnel is a bit of an exercise. is ai origonaly an auto? they have a bigger tunel.

getting the corect drivline angle is very important.(getting the back of the box high enough)

not somthing that id do in my driveway, but much more thrashproof.

mx7 gearbox is the same size but has shit syncros and even worse ratios.

unless you want to run 3.4:1 diff ratio :angry:

Edited by T04GTR
  • 3 months later...

I have been told the 300ZX box is exactly the same as the HCR32, except you'll need to change the bell housing.

I was told this when doing my conversion but I would want to be sure before purchasing if I was you.

I went with the R33 box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...