Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just signed up here today and i am currently in the search of a r32 gts-t, hoping to get a nice stock one. What r some of the first mods for max kws. Ive heard a 33 turbo and intercooler goes well on a 32 giving u the option of windin the boost up reasonably. Just keen to see ur ideas, btw what does a standard 32 turbo run down the quater? or 0-100 speed?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/91453-first-mods-for-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

mates '92 gts-t:

Non standard fuel pump (type unknown - came with the car)

boost controller (14 psi)

3in turbo back exhaust

K&N filter (in the airbox, not a pod filter)

160 rwKw

Though to be fair, his boost gague was out, and it was running on 17psi. How the standard turbos stayed put, I'll never know.

Yes, they are real upgrades (and first on my list - when it Finally Gets Here), but they are all (relativley) easy to do.

I guess the fuel pump is too (my vote is inline booster pump), but I wouldn't be able to change the injectors without trepidation. Guess it depends on how mechanical you are (or how loaded your wallet is)

--ebola

most people say 14psi is pretty much putting it on the line.. yet others have had it run 14psi fine for long periods while others again have had the turbos let go at lower 12psi or such. i think 14psi is risking the turbo blow, but you might get lucky or unlucky and have it at that or let go on even lower psi..

what about injectors, pump, clutch, pod filter etc etc etc sky30???

190rwkw would struggle to let u run a 12, let alone at 117mph

i think ur in dream land

Yes had a POD filter.

Injectors, pump and clutch were all stock , AFR were statring to get lean at around 12.2:1 so the injectors were at the limit.

Yes it made 190rwkw, and yes it Ran a few 12.9 seconds passes.

Why is that so hard to beleive???

190kw will get you in to the high 12's with a nice 60ft and nice shifting. :P

The R33's can do it, so why not the R32's with slightly less weight and a lower diff ratio.

Alot has to do with the driver, Sky30 being a country boy... hrmm it can't be that then... hehe :D

Edited by Cubes

yeah I dont question the 12.9 but 117mph? my r33 does 13.3@113mph with a g-tech it messures your top speed at the end of the quarter at the race track it is measured differently and gives you a lower mph reading than your top speed.

cheers

Edited by Munna

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...