Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For an R32 - would you take a stock GT-R, or a GTS-t that had enough performance and styling bits thrown at it to make up the price difference? Let's say you were just buying them as is, with no intention of modifying the GTS-t any more, or the GT-R at all.

That's about $10000 worth of mods . . . what's your opinion?

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9159-which-would-you-rather-have/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

with the money you spent on a gtr u could get a good gts-t and do a shit load of mods and get it going heaps better then a gtr, if you do everything properly.

that is if u didnt do any mods to the gtr.

dare to be different i say!

This is something im thinking about every day.

Currently i have a 32 GTST that is modded in every way, nothing is realy stock except my seats. Has 235rwkw, full suspension upgrade, new rotors/pads, body kit, wheels etc. Probably spent, well i better not add that up ill scare myself. It goes hard, stops and turns and is great fun to drive. But not good enough yet.

Im thinking either RB25, bigger turbo etc and get about 270rwkw with huge brakes and a totally stripped r32 to keep the weight down OR get a GTR and do some mild mods with new sus brakes to make a killer street/thrash car. A gtr will be quicker on the street you would think due to traction and would be a nicer car to drive daily. the only thing i dont like is when you open the bonnet and there is crap eveywhere, that and if something breaks it will cost a lot more money.

Depends on which you mean. I would only consider the "33" types. For some odd reason I've taken to the 33 over the 32/34 besides the fact it has the most boring interior and arguably the most staid exterior.

Eventually I'll have a 33 GT-R but it seems like an odd upgrade over the 33 GTS-t. It'll be faster in every respect but it won't be as 'fun' to drive, it'll use even more fuel (!!!) and it'll set new standards in extortionate repair and performance bills.

I don't contemplate looking at the same interior again...

T.

i would definately go the GTST with 10k in mods.... drop an Rb25det in it... bigger turbo... fmic... ECU... boost... suspension brakes and tyres... if theres anything left over then work on the exterior

  • 1 year later...

After owning a stock GTR and a fully worked GTS-t, I choose the GTR hands down.

It really is no comparison. The GTR makes such a lot of torque so easily, and is a much nicer car to drive... ATTESA is a godsend too... No point in making 300rwkw if you struggle to put it down and get stomped by stock GTRs off the line...

Given your wording, it could be suggested that the lower-spec has been modded in every way - so every department is up to GTR quality (and god knows how much money that would take?! - a HELL of a lot more than $10k even in canadian $$). Then you essentially have a GTST and GTR with the same performance and luxuries. If both were essentially equal, why would you take the GTST?? (less prestige, less resale value, and so on)

Would I take a GTR over a GTST with $10k thrown at it? Of course.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...