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Whats The Diff Between R33 Gtr & N1 Oil Pumps?


Shaun
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Hello.

Just wondering what the difference is between the R33 gtr oil pump and the N1 oil pump for the same vehicle. Flow rates? Just jap sell the N1 pump for $595 i think. Is this a normal price, or does anyone know where to get them cheaper?

After a full rebuild, im a bit silly for not replacing the pump i think. The engine is now in the car, however, so is it possible to change the oil pump with the engine in the car? I dont have access to the car at the moment, so its hard for me to tell.

The standard pump looked fine at the time of disassembly, but im now having second thoughts and feel thats its not worth risking the 6 grand or so if the used oil pump collar cracks or something.

Thanks in anticipation,

Shaun.

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the only difference is the N1 runs higher oil pressure flow rates are the same!!! THe n1 has a different spring in the relief valve, this is handy for running remote oil filters and coolers as you dont loose as much pressure. Depending on the pump you have and how many kays are on it, generally if they have low k's and you checked the backing plate was really tight you will be fine. As for price new N1 @ around $600 seems right probably can get cheaper but I dont really know.

You can change the oil pump with the engine in it difficult though. What car is it?? If its a gtr you will need to unbolt all the sump lift the engine off the mounts a little and them un bolt the pump and take is out. You need to drop the sump as the prssure relief valve has a bolt that is at the bottom of the oil pump and fouls on the front of the sump when trying to get the pump off the crank.

Hope this helps!!!

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The N1 oil pump is just a standard oil pump with a stiffer relief value. It will increase oil pressure and is a good idea when rebuilding an engine. Oil Pressure would be increased but it flows the same amount of oil.

One weak point of the RB26DETT is the oil pump, so replacing it with an N1 is a good idea.

@$600 is a standard sort of price, you could get it a bit cheaper but not that much cheaper.

Don't forget to either blockup or get one of those Tomei Offores(spelling) to stop all that oil going to the Head of the Engine. You want the oil staying in your sump not the Head.

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Hi Geoff,

I checked out that thread and have to disagree with one thing I wasnt sure so I just went and checked to be sure, and the r34 N1 pump I have here has 12 internal lobes same as the r33 GTR one I have here!!!! Now I know it is a genuine r34 gtr pump as I got it from nissan with the N1 part number on the front. Everything else checks out as the alchemist says, didnt check hardness havent got the equipment. This is an intereting one maybe they changed back on the r34 design or maybe the r33 pump I have is actually a N1 unit?? I will check that with the original owner soon. I like little adventures like this it adds to learning. cheers

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Hi Geoff,

I checked out that thread and have to disagree with one thing I wasnt sure so I just went and checked to be sure, and the r34 N1 pump I have here has 12 internal lobes same as the r33 GTR one I have here!!!! Now I know it is a genuine r34 gtr pump as I got it from nissan with the N1 part number on the front. Everything else checks out as the alchemist says, didnt check hardness havent got the equipment. This is an intereting one maybe they changed back on the r34 design or maybe the r33 pump I have is actually a N1 unit?? I will check that with the original owner soon. I like little adventures like this it adds to learning. cheers

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Thanks for your input guys. I was getting a bit paranoid about re using the old pump, so i just bought a new N1 pump. I got it for $518 from Hi Octane in Rydalmere. I think its worth it for peace of mind. Nissan sell the pumps for $590 which is interesting.

It sucks that ill have to pull the engine out again, but you live and learn i suppose.

Any tips on how to stop the engine turning while pulling the crank pulley off? Im not looking forward to that!

Shaun.

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one important thing to note is the n1 variants are designed for high revving such as track use and are not suited for every day putting around in traffic / normal use

Just to add, Paul, that applies only to the water pump and not to the oil pumps.

Shaun you will have to separate the gearbox as well to attack the rear sump bolts from memory, or maybe a 1/4 drive socket might squeeze in.

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Thanks for your input guys. I was getting a bit paranoid about re using the old pump, so i just bought a new N1 pump. I got it for $518 from Hi Octane in Rydalmere. I think its worth it for peace of mind. Nissan sell the pumps for $590 which is interesting.

It sucks that ill have to pull the engine out again, but you live and learn i suppose.

Any tips on how to stop the engine turning while pulling the crank pulley off? Im not looking forward to that!

Shaun.

a search will reveal a few methods, one approach is to place a long handled extension and socket on the crank pulley, rest the handle of the extension on the nearest solid mount in the engine bay (make sure it's on the correct side!) and let the starter motor do the work (no resposibility taken for this advice LOL)

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Hello.

Just wondering what the difference is between the R33 gtr oil pump and the N1 oil pump for the same vehicle. Flow rates? Just jap sell the N1 pump for $595 i think. Is this a normal price, or does anyone know where to get them cheaper?

After a full rebuild, im a bit silly for not replacing the pump i think. The engine is now in the car, however, so is it possible to change the oil pump with the engine in the car? I dont have access to the car at the moment, so its hard for me to tell.

The standard pump looked fine at the time of disassembly, but im now having second thoughts and feel thats its not worth risking the 6 grand or so if the used oil pump collar cracks or something.

Thanks in anticipation,

Shaun.

My 20 Cents worth.....

Don't waste your time and money, there is no evidence that the R33GTR N1 oil pump does anything better than the standard R33GTR oil pump. Other than have a stronger spring in the pressure relief valve.

It doesn't flow any more oil, it doesn't have superior strength metallurgy, it doesn't have wider drive flanges, the oil galleries are exactly the same size etc etc. It isn;'t thibker wider fatter or even heavier. It doesn't help if you have an oil cooler and/or remote filter because it doesn't flow any more oil. Extra (maximum) pressure is not going to help the bearings live longer. Zero oil pressure due to surge is still ZERO oil pressure, an N1 oil pump is not going to help that.

If you have already wasted your time and money on a N1 pump, then please let me know and I will buy your perfectly good R33GTR standard pump off you, stick a 5 psi stronger relief spring in it and I too will have an N1 pump.

:D cheers :(

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I think SK meant if it was a brand new item re: standard GTR R33 oil pump (new) vs a N1 Oil Pump (new)

I understand that you wanted to change yours, not only for the sake of more pressure but mainly due to the original pump possibly being a bit worn.

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If you have already wasted your time and money on a N1 pump, then please let me know and I will buy your perfectly good R33GTR standard pump off you, stick a 5 psi stronger relief spring in it and I too will have an N1 pump.

:( cheers :)

Standard R33GTR oil pump for sale!

Shaun

:D

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I think SK meant if it was a brand new item re: standard GTR R33 oil pump (new) vs a N1 Oil Pump (new)

I understand that you wanted to change yours, not only for the sake of more pressure but mainly due to the original pump possibly being a bit worn.

Yeah, i think thats what he meant too. I couldnt start my brand new engine with a used oil pump in it! Even it it was perfectly ok, i have peace of mind now!

Shaun.

PS. On a side note Wet GTR, how much did it cost to get your SMC tuned if you dont mind me asking. Did have an Auto tune feature?

Edited by Shaun
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Regardless of new or old, take out the screws and use some loctite to reassemble for gods sake. Reports in my engine thread are that loose screws is common and coincides with low oil pressure.

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Regardless of new or old, take out the screws and use some loctite  to reassemble for gods sake. Reports in my engine thread are that loose screws is common and coincides with low oil pressure.

Thanks for that Geoff, ill take a look at doing that.

By the way, the HICAS lock bar went in really well. I also did what you suggested before installing it.

Ill have to report my engine failure in your section too; ive been meaning to do that!

Shaun.

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when we do all nissan engines we take apart the pumps, replace the screws in the backing plate with high tensile allen key bolts and use the high grade thread locking locktite for re-assembly, the allen key heads mean you can get alot more torque on the bolt, its a 10 minute job that lets us sleep at night.

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Standard R33GTR oil pump for sale!

Shaun

:D

Sold, PM me your bank details, where the courier can pick it up from and how much you want for it. After we check it out (crack test and measure) it is going in a 420+rwkw RB31DET. I know it won't be a problem.

:( cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
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