Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as mentioned earlier, all gtr's whether R32, R33 or R34 are techically AWD. most of the time when you drive they are RWD, but when the rear wheels starts loosing traction the front wheels kick in until the rears gain full traction again.

if youv ever driven a GTR youd notice that its not hard to get them sideways.

cheers

Filip

  • 4 months later...
Guest RedLineGTR

Quote" Correct me if I'm wrong, but the ATTESA system used on the Bluebird and GTiR has absolutely no similarities to the ATTESA system used on the GT-R, apart from that they are in essence both 4WD. The GTR system uses a RWD setup, which when overcome by slip/torque (detected by G meters) it transfers torque to the front wheels, therefore giving 4WD. Whereas, the system used on the Bluebird and GTiR is your simple centre LSD with a 50/50 split front to rear with no electronic variation in torque split (on the auto there was??). In fact, the Bluebird is even worse off then the GTiR as it doesn't come standard with a rear LSD (could be wrong on that). I know I'm probably stating the obvious, as you have fiddled around with your G-TR's system, but the article on the Bluebird ["Family Hauler"] gives the impression that the ATTESA system used is the same as the GT-R, and the only thing the same is the name "

Guest Dragon

RedLineGTR, you will probably find that the ATTESA system on the GTR's are the ATTESA-PRO system.

The ATTESA system on the Bluebird and GTiR is the normal ATTESA system.

The GTR's are RWD untill there is slip, then it will engage FWD.

The Bluebird is FWD untill there is slip, then it will engage RWD.

I am sure it is the same system in the X-Trail (It will engage RWD BEFORE slip happens)

I just wish the ATTESA system was switchable inside just like the X-Trail (FWD-AWD-AUTO)

From what I belive, ATTESA-PRO used G-Force sensors (Two of them, for-aft and lateral) to help the ECU decide how much drive to give to the front wheels.

On the normal ATTESA system, I belive there are no G-Force sensors at all, only a viscus coupling in the center diff.

So what is the system in a X-Trail then.? It has THREE G-Force sensors and a microphone to help the system decide where the drive goes! (For-Aft, lateral AND up-down. Microphone tells the ECU if you are driving on seald road or gravel. ECU also knows that when you have your wipers on that the road is wet!)

Yes, I used to own a Bluebird AWD and a X-Trail. (Untill the X-Trail decided to self combust on the highway!)

Does this make any sense.?

wow didn't know x-trail was that high tech... and wow... such an in depth conversation out of a simple mistake by meggala *coff* :)

Um without going too off topic with the x-trail microphone, wouldn't like vibrations coming out of a subwoofer for example distort the reading?

I thought only the R34 GTR's used the G-Force sensors, or are the R34's the only ones that actually display the G-Force readings and the older versions jus hid them away.

Also, what abotu GTS4's do they have ATTESA? And what is ATTESA-ETS?

All GTR's use the G sensor for the ATTESA system, R32, R33 and R34.

ATTESA is the system on GTR models, ATTESA PRO is the version used on the VSPEC and VSPEC II GTR's, that's part of the reason they're more expensive.

The ATTESA system can transfer drive front to rear, the ATTESA PRO can transfer drive from left to right as well as front to rear.

They've definitly improved the response onf ATTESA as it's gone through it's latest revisions as the current version I have is a step from my R33 and that was a step from my friends R32.

I describe the GTR as rear wheel drive biased 4WD when anyone asks me, as it's been explained by others it drives like a rear wheeler till it's getting upset, then it drives more like a 4 wheeler, but still not as dead a feel as a WRX.

I believe the EVO 7's and 8's feel more like a GTR to drive now as they have a more variable drive system rather than the pure 50/50 of a WRX.

Hope that helps.

Nuthing like hte feeling of riding in a GTR Vspec... Launch it at high rev's and grips like hot sh&t to a blanket, then once 2nd is dropped and a bit of traction is reached youc an feel it start to push power ot the back, then you hit a corner hard and a little drift is felt, only a splite second later the thing grips and feels like its on rails again :) so much fun. Nuthin beats hte variable torque split of the Vspecs either, if anyone every gets a chance to be thrashed around in one take it!! For a car to come out stock form the factory with that sorta performance its amazing and is no wonder why they were banned from racing in australia.

Guest Dragon
Originally posted by funkymonkey

Um without  going too off topic with the x-trail microphone, wouldn't like vibrations coming out of a subwoofer for example distort the reading?

I thought about this too! The only thing I would have done if I was writting the software was to only look for NON repeating sound waves. IE: Listen to random noise, not constant repeating noise.

Plus I think it is more like a Knock sensor then a pure microphone. (Hows does a knock sensor know the difference between subwoofer/tweeter noise and knocking noise?)

I think the sensor listens for the higher pitched noise of stones 'tinkling' against the metal under the vehical.

Canman, learn something new everyday! Thanks for the info. :P

When I drove the new STi, it understeard like a pig, the R34 GTR I drove was a wet dream compared to the STi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...