Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

ok guys, this is a killer for me. im trying to fins some rims that fit the rears of my RS4S, since the stock r34gtt rims wont fit without 20mm spacers, and the r32gtr rims have the same story.

one is 7.5 +38 for the gtt rims and the 32gtr are 8 with +30 offset.

i found some nice rims im trying to get which are 17x9, and im wondering what the best offset for the rears will be

i can get them from -25 to +15 in 5mm intervals.

is -25 too much?

when i ran the r34gtt rims with my 30mm spacer, i still had another 3cm to fill in the guards on the outside of the rim.

at the moment im just in need for some rear rims.

ok guys, this is a killer for me. im trying to fins some rims that fit the rears of my RS4S, since the stock r34gtt rims wont fit without 20mm spacers, and the r32gtr rims have the same story.

one is 7.5 +38 for the gtt rims and the 32gtr are 8 with +30 offset.

i found some nice rims im trying to get which are 17x9, and im wondering what the best offset for the rears will be

i can get them from -25 to +15 in 5mm intervals.

is -25 too much?

when i ran the r34gtt rims with my 30mm spacer, i still had another 3cm to fill in the guards on the outside of the rim.

at the moment im just in need for some rear rims.

Don't they need to be the same all around to make sure all four wheels have the same rolling diameter? In answer to your question I think you'd be after about +15. Mine (pics above) are 18x9.5 +15

i have same rolling diameter all round, 17" gtt fronts and rears but want to replace the rears so i dont need to use the spacers.

im going to opt for deep dish steelies 17x9 i just need to know the best offset.

as 16x8 +30 doesnt fit and 17x7.5 +38 didnt fit.

i did try 17x8 with a +0 and that filled the guards very well

just thought that 8j is too thin for my liking plus they were only lend rims.

so yours is a rs4s?

  • 2 weeks later...

ok quick question, quite urgent, i have a RS4 auto, sitting at 340mm, wondering wats the best size rims to go, widest offset possible. with a 18x9/9.5 rim. so +30 the best or will a +10/15 fit? need to fit both front and rears. thanks

nah, dont care for the front of yet, just trying to sort out the ass. im having heaps of trouble finding decent offset rims, so im getting custom steelies made :D

What's the cost on those?

if i have the centre piece its 150 per rim. but found a set of 17x9 +5 so i might buy them.

i hope my calculations were correct. i ran 17x9+38 on the rear, with 35mm spacers, so they technically were 17x9 +3?

they had a perfect offset

if i have the centre piece its 150 per rim. but found a set of 17x9 +5 so i might buy them.

i hope my calculations were correct. i ran 17x9+38 on the rear, with 35mm spacers, so they technically were 17x9 +3?

they had a perfect offset

Hmmmm, might have to get new others for my watanabe wheels :-) and put my 17x8's on the front and make the 7's into 9's (stagea is going so the r31 will probably see a bit if love)

Looks awesome, what brand of rim are they? what size tyre and did you need coiovers to fit them at rear?, all he rims i have been looking at are 17,18 x9 +28

cheers

darren

they are work emotion CR KAI's, been lowered to 340mm, with camber. just misses rear guard by mm when bounced (without folding over lip), nd have about 3 cm still to go before hits strut. coilovers help. nd running a 245/45 tyre on it. thats when using the Auto wider rear cradle.

Edited by import_zone

been looking through this thread for ages and still not sure if the wheels I'm looking at will fit.

wheels I'm looking at are 18 x 9.5 + 20 and going onto a s2 rs4v (auto)

from what i can find the fronts should be alright with rolled guards

anyone know how the rear will be with the wider rear track of the auto?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...