Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heck yeah. as long as above isn't sarcasm.

Affordable means they can live on a daily.

How much poke if any are people gettiing on 19x9.5 +15s on manual C34s.

I want as little as possible, as mentioned its a daily.

Also how much scrubbing, and guard work is needed.

By my dodgey maths, it seems like as long as i dont go too low should be sweet.

I run 19x9.5 +12 with 245's

The rear clear bilstein struts by 7-9mm and no guard rolling at all with a low ride height of 320mm (too low and chews tyres every 6-8000 km)

You should be right with 9.5 +15....pretty common on R4s....if tyres hit struts, just use a 3mm spacer to get to +12

Cheers guys, looks like its go once the guy I sold my pupra to comes to picks it up...

My V35 17" (I think 8" +30) rears rub my coilover collars without spacers (it came with massive 1" bolt ons), I really dont want to have to put different ones back for new rims.

I also dont want to over tyre with anything bigger than a 245 so should be win.

My car is stock barring exhaust so any wider is just a fun canceller.

  • 2 weeks later...

guys, i need someone to confirm if these will fit my car.

Fronts are 19x8.5 and rears are 19x9.5 +22 offset.

buy some posts in here, there were some confirmation that the rears would be ok. Just not 100% about the front.

cheers

guys, i need someone to confirm if these will fit my car.

Fronts are 19x8.5 and rears are 19x9.5 +22 offset.

buy some posts in here, there were some confirmation that the rears would be ok. Just not 100% about the front.

cheers

If you plan on running it with the Attesa system, then no, they won't work. They need to be the same width (different offset is fine) on all four corners.

If you plan on running it with the Attesa system, then no, they won't work. They need to be the same width (different offset is fine) on all four corners.

Ahhhh... ok ok.. why do they need to be same width?

I had 17x7 front and 17x8 rear with same size tyres with no problems. I believe as long as the tyre circumference is close it should be fine.

I tried the same on my S1 and it hated life. Haven't tried it on the M35's but apparently they are more pedantic about it again than the C34's.

MY+MIND+IS+FULL+OF+f**k+_94d9eb6eea3608124a1e9fe6b0e64f0e.jpg

That was a good read(s). Had to go over it a few times! lol

Its still 50/50 on whether or not the wheels im looking for is still safe to purchase. By what I gathered from reading the above mentioned thread, it SHOULD be ok just aslong as the circumference is within a tolerable range.

My honest opinion is the age old, if in doubt, don't. It is something I have considered while looking for rims but undecided yet, best talk with a workshop that deals with this type of thing for best advice. My other thought is if it were such a problem, why the space saver tyre? All of its dimensions are different to stock size.

The important thing is to keep the same rolling diameter/circumference on the front and rear. Otherwise, it creates variations because the front and rear wheels are rolling at different speeds, then the ATTESA computer tries to constantly correct it, and it creates extra (and unnecessary) wear on the transfer case, leading to expensive repairs.

Cool. So pretty much, all I need to ensure is that the rubber is all the same? the fact that front and rears widths are different shouldnt impact the ATTESA.

If widths DID impact it, then staggered sets would be obsolete. right?

Can I please get some help here, as mentioned previously I am looking at getting some 19 x 9.5 +12s for my rs4s.

So I did a trial muck around with a mates set or vskfs which are 9.5 +28.

I took some measurements with my 26 mm wheel spacers for total offset of +2 and I was around 10mm poked at the back which will end up fine with +12s.

Up front though there was like 30 mm of poke.

How poked out are people running 9.5 +12 or +15s up front.

Photo proof with spacer.

2012-03-09210616.jpg

This ones upside down so imagine I can take a photo properly....

2012-03-09210639.jpg

I don't know how your 2wd differs from my awd formerly auto but if I were you I would bolt them on and modify the guards to suit (not put too small tyres on). I started off with a guard roller but found a length of iron pipe worked best. You will lose paint in the process - I don't think the heat gun approach prevents that. Mine are 17 x 9 +30 with a 20mm spacer on the front.

002-4.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...