Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as per PM reply brendan, you'll have alot of trouble making them fit (particularly since i get the feeling you want to put them on the front - talking about clearing big brakes)

if you are set on te37's get some 18x9.5+12's all round but be prepared to pay a mint as your pm suggests you want brand new ones

as per PM reply brendan, you'll have alot of trouble making them fit (particularly since i get the feeling you want to put them on the front - talking about clearing big brakes)

if you are set on te37's get some 18x9.5+12's all round but be prepared to pay a mint as your pm suggests you want brand new ones

thanks for that info mate

probably go for 18x8.5" +35 as per attached

will put big brake kit on track car project with bolton spacers & stag rear calipers

and throw the r32 gtr calipers allround (with new track pads) onto the stagea

wheel.doc

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys,

I'm New on the Board and i am really happy for so much stagea Fans!

I'm from Germany and i have an 260RS. In next time i will tell more about from my Person and the stagea!

I have two fast questions about the rims at the stagea. Is it possible to have an 8.5x18 et36 and 10x18 et37 rims without Problems? Know how Annone? Second, i have four 245/40 tires for this rims, is it ok to drive that on a 10J?? I really happy for your answers and tips.

Greefs from berlin

Edited by 260RS@R33Typ
Hi guys,

I'm New on the Board and i am really happy for so much stagea Fans!

I'm from Germany and i have an 260RS. In next time i will tell more about from my Person and the stagea!

I have two fast questions about the rims at the stagea. Is it possible to have an 8.5x18 et36 and 10x18 et37 rims without Problems? Know how Annone? Second, i have four 245/40 tires for this rims, is it ok to drive that on a 10J?? I really happy for your answers and tips.

Greefs from berlin

Hi and welcome!

You HAVE to keep the same rolling diameters between the front and rear. If you run the same tyres on different sized rims, it will not work. The rolling diameters will be different because of the stretching of the rear tyres to fit over the 10" rims.

You should try and find a set of wheels and tyres that are the same size and width front and rear, or you will have BIG and expensive problems with the transfer box after you drive it for a while.

  • 5 weeks later...

Helo Guys,

just to confirm this.

18x9 +20 5/114.3 fitted with 245/40R18 will fit onto the 260rs? Cos i read somewhere in this thread that i wll need spacers and longer wheel nut for the rear rims.

thanks peps.

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm not sure if they will fit without hitting on the strut, if they do fit then they will be sunken inside the guards heaps.

Also, for an RS4 due to the ATTESSA system you would be better off running the same width front and back, unless you work out the tyre sizes so you can maintain the same front and back rolling diameter.

G'day All,

Nice thread, heaps of info on offset for manuals, just a little about offset for autos though?

My Partner is in the process of buying herself a completely stock std S2 RSFourV Tiptronic Stag.

Stag to be lowered on Tein Wagon S-Tech Coils - Then She wants some nice rims!

Short of me trying my R33 GTR and AU Falcoon rims (when we get it home), can some smart person suggest the best offset for 18 x 8.5-9 rims all round - considering from what I have read the auto has a wider rear end in it compared to manual.

Advanced thanks for your time and info,

Cheers Mike.

14911431.jpg

Hi is anyone running 19x9.5 +12 on a rs four s without rolling the guards or is this to aggressive! Sorry if this has been covered! Thanks in advance for any help

That is exactly what I run. No guard rolling. 245/35/19 tyres with acceptable rear camber. 330mm ride height

That is exactly what I run. No guard rolling. 245/35/19 tyres with acceptable rear camber. 330mm ride height

Thanks your is exactly how id like mine to sit! Is there any more room under the front guards with the 34 front compared to standard??

  • 2 weeks later...
rims :- RAYS LM GT4

size :- 19 x 9.5 +30 offset

tyres :- Dunlop Maxx SP

size :- 19x35x245

fits a lowered m35 without rolling the gaurds thus far.

Thats mad. Look at those things! More photos please!!! I'm glad you didn't give up or listen to the "mechanics..."

:P

edit- found pics! NICE :yes:

Edited by PN-Mad

ok, ive tried figuring this out for myself here...

would 19x9.5+15 fit a stagea?

or +22? (theres a sick set of Rays GT-C's on a website that i've got my eye on)

and whats the deal with the 260RS? rear offset is different to the front yes?

if those offsets are wrong could someone tell me what offset i'd need to run 19x9.5's (or 10's if possible...)

thanks Brendan.

ok, ive tried figuring this out for myself here...

would 19x9.5+15 fit a stagea?

or +22? (theres a sick set of Rays GT-C's on a website that i've got my eye on)

and whats the deal with the 260RS? rear offset is different to the front yes?

if those offsets are wrong could someone tell me what offset i'd need to run 19x9.5's (or 10's if possible...)

thanks Brendan.

What model C34 do you have?

Auto?

manual?

260Rs with Brembo's?

That will determine what fits

When looking at Rays wheels against width and offset there is a couple of things to consider

Depending what on the offset on a certain size will deteremine what the caliper clearance is as referred to by Rays as disk type A, B or C

If you check out the Rays site, find the wheel you want, pick a size and compare it to the charts. If you need a "A" disk clearance, the offsets are different when compered to a B or C disk

Example

I run Rays's GT-C's Face 2 in a 19x9.5 +12, manual rear end.

Check the charts and you will see they are a "B" disk with 86mm outer rim (dish) Only just clear (1-2mm) r34 GTT 310mm dia brakes.

If I went to 19x9.5 +11, only 1mm different in offset, but they are a A disk (fit over brembo's) but with a 73mm out rim (so less dish)

Hope this helps.

http://www.rays-msc.com/wheels/index.cgi?d=19

http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/2009/products/...mp;for=domestic

Edited by darrinspencer

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...