Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i currently have a lil problem with my injectors and fuel rail, i have standard injectors and fuel rail on my r32 GTR and i have found fuel leeking at the top of the injector beetwen the o ring and the fuel rail. does anyone know where i can find these o rings? i have replaced them with some others this mechanic guy gave me and i think there worse than the originals? is there any secrets in fixing this problem? ohh and it usually leaks the worst when its just sitting idoling not when its reving or under load.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92404-injector-o-rings/
Share on other sites

Not sure where the 18 seals number comes from, but on an R32 GTR there are 6 injector-to-fuel rail O-rings and 6 injector tip seals (Nissan calls these 'insulators'). All these are about $6 each from Nissan (trade - that price was valid a few months back when I did mine). The tip seals are also available at injector specialists and they will also have O-rings (of course), but I found that the aftermarket type wasn't 'quite' the right size and that might be why the OP is having trouble with the one's the mechanic supplied. In any event, do them all if anyone is going to the trouble of taking the rail out - a leak in that area is not something you want to live with.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92404-injector-o-rings/#findComment-1668062
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm actually not sure - I think it was "Stealth Performance" (It really is near impossible to find a FEMALE 1/8BSPT to 1/8NPT male at ALL) but having the thing leveraged on a 90 degree angle on a small aluminium fitting is not too smart. Also in not too smart, I've drilled out the center of the broken fitting so there's maybe 0.00001mm of thread to bite into, so yeah. I may have to get it drilled/tapped/plugged entirely. Given I could conceivably tap a thread/adapter/pressure line in any point in the oil system I suppose it's feasible to run a line to the Nissan Sensor to keep the dash working. Do these exist in AN fittings and the like? Like an AN fitting that has a NPT (or other?) thread as well for putting a sensor in?
    • I would agree.  There will be an amount of boost you could run safely with an otherwise factory system, but it would be low enough to not be worth the cost.  And if you are reliving your 20s, you know a 'little bit' was never enough. Personally, if I didn't want to spend the money, then stick with NA bolt-ons, and maybe a tune.
    • Fuark, at least the motor survived. What brand was the fitting that snapped?
    • Wrong question. There's no point in spending the rather large sum of cash and effort to add turbo, without taking it to the "sensible" limit of the motor itself. If you have to upgrade injectors, etc, then so be it. That is a tiny fraction of what it will cost you to turbo it.
    • Measure voltage at the starter solenoid terminal when the key is at start and it has clicked. If it is really low, then the suspicion falls on the ignition switch (contacts or wiring thereof) as causing a voltage drop instead of sending enough volts to throw the solenoid all the way to engage the starter itself. If it is a decent voltage, then the suspicion is on the solenoid. Might have s horted coil, or might hva dirty contacts. Rip the starter off, dismantle, clean up contacts and inspect winding. It might not be possible to see if there is a short in the winding though. I have a spare starter here that I could measure the resistance of the coil, as a guide to about what it should be, if you need a comparison. <parts hoarder>No you cannot have it.</parts hoarder>
×
×
  • Create New...