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The Intercooler Thread

AlexCim

By AlexCim,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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Tommy G Collaborator

Tommy G

Posted
Posted

Here are some pics of my final FMIC installation. I got the car back from Springy Motors earlier this week and am absolutely stoked with the outcome (see dyno thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4719149 )

I removed the front bar, as I wanted to replace the black mesh inserts to 'hide' the cooler a bit. You can see what the 'Cooling Pro' Stealth FMIC looks like behind the bar here. For $150 I had George at Springy Motors fabricate some brackets to allow the bottom cooler mounts to attach to the frame (the brackets provided in the kit don't attach to anything)

I hand-sanded the angle-grinder trimming behind the bar, and did a dry fit with the mesh held in with masking tape. I had to trim the cooler piping clamp bolts with a grinder to make some room, and when I was happy with the dry-fit, used some 'Sikaflex' glue purchased at Autobarn to fix the mesh in place. I put a few bricks on it overnight to make a good bond.

I then trimmed away excess glue, re-attached the front bar, and did up all the bolts holding all the undercarriage plastics in place. All in all pretty happy with how the whole thing turned out. It looks pretty tidy, and turned out to be quite 'stealthy' after all. My advice for anyone considering a Cooling Pro Stealth on a S2 would be to just budget around $150 to have it professionally fitted - you'll still be a whole lot in front of buying a Greddy kit!

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Tommy G Collaborator

Tommy G

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Looks great Tommy. How much did you have to trim off the front bar to get it all to fit??

Hey Sabbai,

I would estimate I trimmed about 60-70mm from the inner vents. Basically, (on a 'Dayz' bar anyway) you need to make the inner two vents flush with the outer vents. I'm not sure why the inner vents extend further into the engine bay than the outers in the first place, but they've gotta go. You could trim a bit more off to allow a bit more room, but I didn't want to make those vertical 'struts' either side of the numberplate any thinner than required.

PS

Very nice install Tangles! That looks seriously tough.

SABBAi Grand Master

SABBAi

Posted
Posted
Hey Sabbai,

I would estimate I trimmed about 60-70mm from the inner vents. Basically, (on a 'Dayz' bar anyway) you need to make the inner two vents flush with the outer vents. I'm not sure why the inner vents extend further into the engine bay than the outers in the first place, but they've gotta go. You could trim a bit more off to allow a bit more room, but I didn't want to make those vertical 'struts' either side of the numberplate any thinner than required.

PS

Very nice install Tangles! That looks seriously tough.

Thanks Tommy. My Dayz Edition arrives late August and I'm wanting to get a cooler into it, but I didn't want to hack the front bar up. I like the way you've fitted it, as it looks to be done very well.

Looks good Tangles.

rx7gt Contributor

rx7gt

Posted
Posted
This is how i did it. I cut 1cm out of the lower part of the front bar, and got no problem at all with the clearance. :devil:

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Nice install guys ..... just thought I would say to all stagea owners thinking of putting on a big front mount I/C

Take note !!! make sure your radiator is in good condition!!! get it cleaned or fixed!! as stagea's and r33's only have a standard 1 core radiator!!(many other sports cars have three or four core radiators). And if radiator is half full of junk(As japanease dont like putting coolant in cars) it is alredy putting stress on motor/cooling system then if you reduce air flow with a front mount then overheating/extra/engine stress could result blown head etc or worse big $$$ So for the cost of around a $100 or so to get your radiator rodded/ cleaned out it's cheap and could possibly save you heaps. Just trying to save stag owners $$$ Trust me fixing head gasket on stag is a F***Bitch of a job. Stag on!! ;)

Total cost below 5000sek (approx 750 AUD)

stageaharts Community Regular

stageaharts

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

just thought I'd add my (Very recent) experiences on the front mount issue. I ordered a Just Jap "C34 Stealth" kit on Monday, received it very happily on Wednesday. To start of with, the front mount is now fitted and looks fantastic. The car boosts stronger, faster and higher, or so it feels :blush:. Fit of pipes up to stock set-up was absoloutely perfect, and the core looks a treat. The one gripe I have with the kit was the fittings (Silicon was fine. Hose clamps were great though!). To be honest, the brackets and fixings supplied with kit fit absoloutely nowhere. For example: It was necessary to add another 40mm to the supplied spacer lengths in order for the intercooler to sit off of the fan unit. This in turn meant I had to replace the supplied mounting stud with a longer unit to suit the new spacer lengths. When pairing the supplied nuts with bolts of same diameter, some of the nuts would not thread onto the bolts, any of them. The supplied brackets seemed to attach to nothing whatsoever, in any configuration (Nth to Sth orientation vs. East to West orientation.) which meant I need to purchase new angles and fabricate them to suit the application. To tell you the truth, the problem solving process and fabrication was an entertaining surprise, but not an anticipated one :P

In short, if you purchase the same JJR C34 Stealth Intercooler Kit, expect to:

-Buy new fixings, spacers and brackets: ~$50

-Extra fabrication time: ~1hr

N.B.: This was fitted to a 1998 Series 1 Stagea, "Dayz Edition". No trimming of the Front Bar was required :down:

Big thanks to Chris for the 8mm driver and his time tightening clamps and fitting the bar!

harts.

  • 1 month later...
DaveB Mentor

DaveB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nice work Tangles! That cleaned up pretty nicely after the gaping hole I saw in the bottom of your front bar at a cruise once, and the intake pipes held in with cableties! That's a very nice looking Stag.

PS Where did you get that lower-lower-lip-spoiler?? That's awesome

Edited by DaveB
  • 5 weeks later...
D3RV Collaborator

D3RV

Posted
Posted

Here's mine after throwing on the Blits front bar + sideskirts, and a HDI GT Spec R32/33/34 FMIC.

As will most coolers I had to do the following:

Cut a hole in the battery tray,

Trim the fan blades,

Cut out 2cm of the intrusion bar

Trim a fair bit of the front bar.

Create slightly larger holes where the factory piping went through (under the air filter)

I didn't move the transmission cooler, but if I relocated it, the cooler would most definitely sit better.

post-9646-1254113248_thumb.jpg

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