Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 254
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Has anyone had any luck fitting a front mount to a S2 Stagea with a Dayz front bar, without cutting the reo bar??

Any help would be appreciated,

Model, Size, etc, would be great.

Thankyou in advance

My reo needed a fair bit of cutting and front bar needed a fair amount too with my GReddy M-Spec.

  • 1 month later...

Just ordered the Just Jap Stealth kit. After reading this thread it seems that it should work pretty nicely.

Our Stagea has the Dolphin front bar so I am thinking that will give us a bit more room to work with as well as less obstructions for airflow.

Fingers crossed it gets here before the Xmas break.

Just ordered the Just Jap Stealth kit. After reading this thread it seems that it should work pretty nicely.

Our Stagea has the Dolphin front bar so I am thinking that will give us a bit more room to work with as well as less obstructions for airflow.

Fingers crossed it gets here before the Xmas break.

Sean, its a pretty easy install, you need to trim a little out of the reo, i had to trim abit out of the dayz front bar but as you say, a dolphin bar should give you plenty of room. the only issues i found were:

- the bottom mounting brackets were no good, i had to make up my own, used the ones they gave me but had to add to them so they would work.

- i mounted the top centre bolt to the bonnet latch support, there is already a couple of holes in the support, i just used one of those holes along with a long bolt and spacer. if you use the spacer supplied in the kit you may have an issue with the bottom of the intercooler hitting the a/c thermo fan, i used a longer spacer and had no issues with the intercooler fouling on the thermo fan or the oil cooler (S2).

- the bottom black plastic engine tray cover bit, the return pipe stops you from putting a couple of the bolts back it to hold this up, and if you mount the intercooler too low you may have to cut a section of it out for the return pipe.

- not really an issue but the horns need to be bent back a tad to clear the intercooler.

- the outside air temp sensor needs to be moved, i just cable tied it up to the thermo fan shroud.

apart from that the pipe work itself was good, easy to line up with the stock pipes. there are some holes in the end of the chasis rail for the return pipe mount to bolt to.

here's a pic of mine without the reo

post-34711-1260775937_thumb.jpg

and here is a pic of how i mounted it up on the bottom. i used the 2 supplied brackets on the one side, just had to join them together and drill a couple of holes, the made up something the same for the other side out of some steel i had here at home. i've since tidied them up a little.

post-34711-1260776120_thumb.jpg

good luck with the install :)

Edited by QWK32
  • 2 weeks later...

Ok well the JJR kit arrived last night , was going to start on it today ( this morning ) but had a few things to take care of at work so I might start at around mid-day. I had a really quick look at things last night and looks like I am going to have to hack the front bar a bit. What are the best tools to cut that kinda plastic with? I have a Dremel with a cut off wheel but thats going to take AAAGES! Other than that I was thinking a jigsaw with a blade suitable for plastic might be faster way of doing things.

I will make sure I post some pics.

I used a freash sharp blade in a stanley knife and it did the trick, just got to be slow and steady with your cut. I also used a small razor blade to get in the tight spots.

Be carefull with a jigsaw, you may lift the paint, I'd suggest masking tape on the are you are cutting to help. Also don't use too small pitch on a jigsaw blade. If it's too small the plasic just melts and sets in the cut after you pass.

ok well got home, ripped off the factory cooler off ( More on that in a min !) , took the front bar off etc etc.

Now- the Just Jap intercooler kit is definately not a direct fit. The oil cooler fouls it and the thermo fan comes pretty close too ( this has been addressed before. Also in our particular instance it fouls on the front bar on the right hand side vent as you are looking at the car. My thoughts were to put the numberplate over the vent so that it is out of the way of the airflow into the cooler and it will also cover any hacking I need to do for the pipes to clear the vent

I need to find a new home for the horns and also the oil cooler. Hey whats the dealio with relocating oil coolers? anything to be looking at , ie any traps for young playerS?

The weird thing is that the factory cooler was oily on the OUTLET of the cooler and clean on the inlet of the cooler??

WTF ? does that make sense to anyone else? where does the oil come from in the space of passing thru the cooler!?

The return pipe on the new cooler hangs a bit lower than the lip on the front bar - so we will have to mind that when we go parking etc.

There is some jiggering around to be done where the factory pipes meet the new cooler pipes - I need a few extra inches and should be good.

post-36321-1261564033_thumb.jpg

post-36321-1261564061_thumb.jpg

post-36321-1261564095_thumb.jpg

Yes, if you do a search you should find a thread with a comparison of various aftermarket options such as Trust, Nismo and ARC. Another possibility is to use the space for a water to air intercooler but i don't think anyone here has done it on a Stagea as yet. The simplest upgrade (see the DIY sticky) is the S2 or GTT smic into the S1.

Ok - Snag #1 !!

I dont know if its some kinda crazy ingenuity on Just Japs behalf , but to cut a long stoy short the factory intercooler pipework for the Stagea seems to be somewhere between 2.5 inch and 2.25 inch ! WTF?

Like no sh1t hey.. I went to replace the factory elbows ( near where the Air box used to sit ) to get a bit more length to mate up the Just Jap pipe work , and got some 2.5 inch 90 Deg Elbows , brought them home and BaawBAAWWW .. the fit was just much too loose, I tried clamping it down with a clamp and was just not 100% happy with it, just seemed to bunch up a bit.

So went back to the guy ( THANK YOU to CHAMP from SilviaWA ) and got some 2.25 inch elbow bends and yeh.. its going to be like fitting a grand piano down a flight of stairs ( TIGHT ) but I would prefer to try and get a good tight fit rather than stress about it leaking while its getting Nistuned.

Now dont get me wrong. I am not bagging Just Jap , not by any means. I am just trying to get the information out there for others that are going down the same path. I think it would have been good if Just Jap priced the cooler kit a bit higher and included all the replacement pipework.

Anyways having driven for god knows how long this afternoon I am not going to work on it anymore , but will post more information about this sometime between xmas and NYE!

Water to air = SIIIIIIIKKK!!!!!! expensive but pure Porn!!

Yes, if you do a search you should find a thread with a comparison of various aftermarket options such as Trust, Nismo and ARC. Another possibility is to use the space for a water to air intercooler but i don't think anyone here has done it on a Stagea as yet. The simplest upgrade (see the DIY sticky) is the S2 or GTT smic into the S1.

There's a Trust SMIC for sale in the skyline part section. The guy reckons he made 300kw with it (which i think is pushing it a bit) but it would be a good upgrade for anyone wanting to make up to 240 or may 270kw at a stretch. I used to have one and it was great. They are a bit fiddly to fit as the brackets don't line up but the hoses do and still a lot easier than fitting a fmic.

Started her up last night , didnt hear any leaks etc so all must be well.

Though I dont know if I am paranoid or what but I could detect a slightly rough idle, but having said that the car has been on stands for a while so I guess its hardly surprising.

you can see the new oil cooler peeking up there :/

post-36321-1262225725_thumb.jpg

post-49463-1262584166_thumb.jpgMy similar return pipe fmic. I have cut out all the plastic where the number plate was. Would probably look better without the bit of grill that I stuck in there but its more stealthy this way ;)
  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...