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Peter, thankyou for your superfast delivery & excellent product.

We've checked & changed so many things over the past year and then when the car started stalling in the middle of the freeway etc it got very dangerous. The interface has been invaluable, being able to log everything, we diagnosed the problem very quickly.

Now we can get on with the fixing and stop stuffing around :)

Cheers

Kaz

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AFM voltage all over the place.. should be at 1.1v at idle or some such.. voltage drops out whilst driving, car stalls, voltage goes back up (even when car still not running).. I'm sure Michael can be more specific. :)

I'm sure Michael can be more specific. :(

heh...more to the point..it's shagged ;)

Seemed to be either connections in the afm or the loom. as kaz said the data logging showed the afm voltage would drop off (showed 0.5V) just before the car stalled. Voltage specs also didn't match what was detailed in engine manual when cranking / idling etc (idle should show 1.1V and I can't remember the others off the top of my head).

Swapped it with a friend's AFM and logged it, and it showed everything as it should be.

The data logging function + the engine manual together are invaluable :) I just needs to find a better program to graph the data logged (excel is terrible unless you've taken a really short sample). Any suggestions would be great :)

datalog viewer (for datascan logs?) is $us20 from here: http://www.blazt.biz/products/dviewer.htm

haha the top of the page reads:

"Having trouble reading your datalog files?

Sick of converting numbers to graphs in Excel?"

Sums it up in one :D thanks for that.

Michael

Peter, I put mine together and discovered it didn't work. A first for me with a kit. I had a look at 46n2's board last night and discovered there is a small error in the instructions. My fault for not looking at the pics enough but I normally go off the diagram. The board diagram has male marked as the 2 led end and female as the capacitor end, and so too do your instructions but the actual picture shows them around the other way (unless I'm having some identity issues with what constitutes male and female :P).

As soon as I swapped them it was running perfect.

sorry im not sure which component you're talking about? the serial connectors? the female end goes on the left of the board (near capacitors and red led). i guess the pic showing the board upsidedown doesnt help? (ive removed it cause it doesnt really show anything as its too blurry)

Edited by NewKleer

Yeah I guess it's what you define female and male, and I was talking about the serial connectors sorry. I was looking at the overall plug, and not the pins but considered that way it makes sense to me.

Here's a few more pics that may be of use.

post-6392-1131841861.jpgpost-6392-1131841924.jpgpost-6392-1131841975.jpgpost-6392-1131842038.jpg

just reached the 24 limit today - i do have more parts (not packaged together yet) but ill leave accepting any more orders till ive put them together and confirmed all parts etc are there.

id guess maybe another 20 worth of parts, so dont be too concerned if you missed out just now, as i should know by at latest end of this weekend whether i have all needed parts (but maybe next day or two, depends when i have the time)

when i get a chance ill also look towards some common troubleshooting tips such as checking voltages and so on for when the interface doesnt work.

Put my together last night..

Surprisingly seemed to work first go.. although one of the biggest problems was sorting the pins in the consult plug cable..

Mine has some problems of losing the signal occasionally as the plug doesn't appear to 'lock in' fully to the car's port... even though the pins are at the same level as the inner plastic. Might try and pull them forward.

Oh, and calumsult doesn't work on win98 :P and my ancient laptop.. damn.. Conzult does though :)

good to see most people are getting it to work first time. if ur having any issues (eg the plug) see if u can take a pic and post it here and i can have a look at see whether anything seems out of the ordinary. the plug should fit in quite firmly in the car's socket.

its good to have o2 sensor fluctuating - its bad if it stays the same. when it fluctuates ur hovering around the 14.7:1 AFR which is ideal for cruising/non power conditions - when ur travelling constant speed ur o2 should definitely be fluctuating continuously up and down, almost 0 to 100 and back and forth

Edited by NewKleer

hey pete, i recieved mine today, and im very happy with it, just finished soldering it up on the work bench and its bloody well designed, give ya self a pat on the back, can wait to try it out tomorrow......

cheers... Pete

hope to have more kits available by end of weekend

just a note about the software - ive added a link to an old calumsult.exe - this should be used if theres any issues with rom dumping as the author said he may have messed up the routine a bit in the latest version.

just a reminder about the parts - not all kits have the same parts as the construction guide - some kits have 27 or 33pf capacitors (both work fine), and some have electrolytic or tantalum capacitors (for the 5x1uf and 1x10uf) - with a few having a combination thereof (eg 5 elec and the 10uf being tantalum).

check the picture in section 10 of the construction guide to identify them.

OK, who's a computer wiz that can quickly tell me how to get this thing to work with a laptop that has no serial ports. I have a USB to serial cable, but I can't find where to tell the latop that I want the USB to see/emulate/ look like/be com port 4.

:P cheers :D

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