Jump to content
SAU Community

Hissing After Shut Down

Mumbo#5

By Mumbo#5,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mumbo#5 Collaborator

Mumbo#5

Posted
Posted

hi all

Ive just finished rebuilding my engine and got the car back on the road (now its off the road again cause some f**ktard ran into me :@) but I noticed that when I shut the engine off, there is a distinct hissing noise coming from the front left side of the car. I have checked all vacuum lines etc (cause thats what it sounds like) and cant find a fault.

Has anyone had the same problem or does anyone know what it could possibly mean?

Cheers guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/92973-hissing-after-shut-down/
Share on other sites
Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

My car has similar sounds when you turn it off... it'll kinda hiss for a bit like there is a pressure releasing..

Makes a couple of other noices, ticks a bit than settles down and stops after 20secs or so.. I've got over it as I don't think there is anything wrong I think it's probably just the engine cooling..

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted
My car has similar sounds when you turn it off... it'll kinda hiss for a bit like there is a pressure releasing..

Makes a couple of other noices, ticks a bit than settles down and stops after 20secs or so.. I've got over it as I don't think there is anything wrong I think it's probably just the engine cooling..

Exact same thing on mine.. After a while the faint hissin noise goes away..

must be a series 2 thing..

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted
but ive only got the standard nissan turbo.. well so I think anyways.. but the only thing is it wasnt doing it before the rebuild (forged rods and pistons + balance).  Is it anything to worry about??

mine did the same thing when I had the standard turbo.

Like a hiss whistle. I wouldn't worry. If your engine is running ok, then leave it be.

Fly-By Enthusiast

Fly-By

Posted
Posted
Mine is stock except from exhaust.. it still does it.. I wouldn't be too worried..

No need to worry.... as a few of you had said its just pressure release coming back through your pod. You can just sort of hear it if you have your standard air box in there, but its no where near as noticeable.

I even had a vtech civic that would hiss out the pod when you switched it off... No need to stress guys.

Rj34GTT Collaborator

Rj34GTT

Posted
Posted

On the topic of noise's any1 have this on their car

After i got GFB Stealth FX BOV fitted i now can hear my turbo making a winding noise

not air suction noise. cant really describe it but i've heard the same noise on a WRX sorta like a humming only when im on boost sounds pretty cool. just wanna know if its safe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • iamhe77
      Might import a stagea

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • iamhe77
      Stagea identification?

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...