Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 10 months later...
Yeah, I was gonna say something about that :)

Cheers for the pics though, should make the guide a bit easier to follow, my photos are shockin. I'll put all the photos back in order too...

Just my 2 c insteed of cutting the pipe head down to enzed and get a barbed fitting for it so its all nice and neat and wont blow off

  • 7 months later...
  • 5 months later...
  • 10 months later...

ok after reading all 10 pages i just want to make sure of something...

i will be fitting a hicas lock bar to my r32 gtr, do i join the 2 lines back there to each other so the fluid can still 'flow' ?

will this work fine? wont put strain on the power steering pump ?

just wana do this the quickest and best way possible,

thanks !

When I orginally removed my HICAS, I just looped the lines back into each other at the back of the car.

When I removed the lines and solenoid, I just looped it back into the itself under the resevoir.

I will now be utilising those looped lines to install a cooler :)

  • 1 year later...

Great Thread!

Just 1 Question - On the GTR R32,

When you get to the stage where you remove the Red Circled pipe in the Pic below and blank it off on the Power Steering pump,

BUT

Where does the Loose pipe go to, that you have taken off ??

Thanks!!!

HICAS.jpg

It goes to the HICAS solenoid. I have just finished pulling all that out of my R32. There is absolutely no looping involved when you pull it all out. The front outlet of the power steer pump still just goes to and from the rack, and the rear outlet of the power steer pump doesn't exist, because you replace the old R32 pump with a newer one and get a new line made up. All the rear steer plumbing goes in the bin.

It goes to the HICAS solenoid. I have just finished pulling all that out of my R32. There is absolutely no looping involved when you pull it all out. The front outlet of the power steer pump still just goes to and from the rack, and the rear outlet of the power steer pump doesn't exist, because you replace the old R32 pump with a newer one and get a new line made up. All the rear steer plumbing goes in the bin.

So you removed the section with the fluid cooler on the drivrs side as well . . . ? (where most loop the 2 pipes together)

All gone. My "cooler" has been out of circuit for years anyway because it had a crimp in it, was causing high pressure and leakage in the power steering circuit. So my car had been looped out there for a decade already. But now it's all gone. I plumbed a spare little auto trans cooler into the new power steering circuit to provide more cooling than it will ever need (trying to compensate for the previous years of neglect!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...