Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Shit, you could have a redline of 10,000rpm if you wanted too but most engines will be producing peak power way before this, and it would require racing forged parts.

What are you really interested in, make shitloads of power, cause a high rev limit is not the best way to go.

See'ya:burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9404-high-revving-rb20s/#findComment-142000
Share on other sites

I have an auto GTS-4 (vitually standard with a few minor mods) and when I drive at around 55-60kph then I floor the accelerator and drop the auto into 1st you get to see the tacho needle go way past the 9000rpm so I checked the Avc-r and Rsm to check the actual peak figures and both display figures around the 11500rpm (wasn't that high to start with was 10500 first and now it say's 11500 so I broke my old record by 1000 rpm)

and there was no engine damage at all!!(dam no matter how hard I try I still can't break the RB20)

I nearly couldn't believe it the first time I saw it!,I was showing a friend the functions of the Avc-r!

You can imagine the look on his face too!! :lol:

MEGA

P.s might post pic of screen with the 11500 on it if you wan't!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9404-high-revving-rb20s/#findComment-143305
Share on other sites

My RB20 runs a standard (I think!) ECU with APEXI A/F & I/T units piggybacked. Cutout should be 8400rpm but I've seen over 9 without a hint of hesitation. Everyone else is right about wasting your time up there as power gains are non existant even with a solid huffer upgrade. No matter how well engineered the RB series are, they're still going to eventually deteriorate or destruct sooner if pushed that hard! Where's the love?

Curious though! Does anyoune know what would most likely give up first? Is it valves, rods or something else?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9404-high-revving-rb20s/#findComment-143329
Share on other sites

put a brick on the gas pedal in neutral. I'm sure it will see a good 15-17,000rpm before the engine parts start coming out the exhaust.

we did this to a mazda 808 wagon(and a few others) with the 1600cc motor and although we didn't have a tacho readout, we were pretty sure it was singing at 14,000rpm for a good 10min of fireworks display out of the tail pipe, the longest we ever saw, before the engine seized.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9404-high-revving-rb20s/#findComment-143348
Share on other sites

When looking at RB20 there arent many people making rods for them, maybe because they arent seen in the same class as RB26/Sr20/2JZ etc. But its worth considering that they are pretty bullet proof factory so no one bothers with overkill rods stronger then the engine could ever flow.

Out of interest does anyone know any stats of the old Sammut Bros Drag 300ZX. I know it ran an RB30, but id be curious to know the level of mods considering the number of untubbed 9/10 sec VLs getting around VIC

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9404-high-revving-rb20s/#findComment-143359
Share on other sites

Guest nismogtsx

I dont rev my motor....

Even though its built for 8000+ rpm gear changes, I dont due to boost bleed caused by a faulty ext wastegate i am just driving the car gentlly until the new turbo/wastegate/intercooler package gets delivered.... I have had the car to 9500rpm back in the days when it had its original stock IC but now with the larger FMIC and turbo the car hits peak power at 5700 rpm and any thing after that is a waste of time... Know what i mean....

But im sure that once i get the new larger turbo ill be able to drive the motor to the best part of 10,000rpm, but even then i will never keep hitting it..

My average gear change is at 3,000rpm i really dont drive the turbo... When i get up it im changing at 5000rpm... But when i really get up it ill go to 9000+rpm (not recientlly as explained above.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9404-high-revving-rb20s/#findComment-143380
Share on other sites

What computers are you all running so that your engines actually hit those revs???

I wouldnt be happy if i got my car back from the tuner and they had increased my redlien past say 8200rpm. Engines stresses increase exponentially as revs rise.

If i understand correctly its safer doubling engine power using boost only whilst maintaining factory redline, then to increase the rev limit from the factory 7400 (on my engine anyway) to say 10,000rpm. Neither are really safe if you dont want to rebuild/replace an engine if (some may say when) she goes bang.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9404-high-revving-rb20s/#findComment-146959
Share on other sites

8200 seems to be the the red line most quoted I know of a very strong rb 20 that was pulling hard to 8500 and this motor ran in this state for 2 years making 5-600 hp it was using tomei forged pistons 82 mm so a 2.2 kit with the rb 26 crank install you can look at 9000 rpm. personalyy 8 k seems fine to me although my car has the rev limiter set to 7600 why you ask cause with my current turbo there is no point.

meggala

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9404-high-revving-rb20s/#findComment-147041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
    • Dashcams Australia (13/05/25) captured JDMHSE (Vic plate) being a right tosser. 
    • Wish someone would start a racing series for Group A replica cars, a bit like Touring Car Masters but for 1985 onwards and not grandpa's falcon and/or Monaro. I know they race in some historic class but that's for original cars, no replicas allowed.
×
×
  • Create New...