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rev210 do you have any dyno figures? I'm not understanding much of what people are saying in this thread i only understand dyno figures :)

Im extremely interested to see how you go with this whole plan and the other conversation is interesting.

Maybe someone could workout what my HP is at the fly/rear as I dont know what the conversion is.

Heres my mods

'95 Series II

FMIC (Micks Metal Crafts)

HKS Pod Filter

3" Custom Front + Dump Pipe (1 pipe)

3" Hiflow Cat

3" Nismo Cat-back

2 Stage Boost Controller (7/12psi)

Stock ECU

Stock Turbo

203 rwkw @ 12psi

Dyno Printout

Blue = Yesterdays Dyno Run

Red = 3mths ago before rest of exhaust etc.

I don't want any more power for the time being I just want to improve launching capabilities (Nismo Suspension which I think needs to be re-setup) and maybe some wider tyres (currently using Falken 225's/16").

I would LOVE to jump on the drag strip down at Eastern Creek but at the moment I'd be too embarressed to either drop a burnout or just axle tramp off the line.

Would be awesome if you could do dyno runs after each mod just to see the small increments of rwkw your gaining out of non-standard mods (By non-standard I mean not just whacking on a big turbo and fmic like 99% of the people on here do).

I've realised that different cars can make huge differences in performance and power with very similar mods.

benm,

It's good to see the power improved with the new zorst. The thing is rear wheel dyno's are for tuning and not too good for comparison.

I can tell you that the std turbo can't make any more than about 300HP at the flywheel, if you have a std turbo you would be making less than 300HP at the flywheel.

No one cares if you wheel spin your way to ordinary times, its alot of fun to do and hey learning is something you can only do at the track. The more practice the better you get.

225's are good its 2inches more rubber than I have, worth giving it a shot. let them down to 19psi when you go to the creek.

Have fun!

turbomad,

thats why I don't get all ga ga over rear wheel dyno figures.

If I take my car to Myaree Dyno over here I'll probably get more than 300rwhp (it's a dyno dynamics dyno too). I wouldn't have any issues using their dyno (high readings aside) because I wouldn't be there to get figures to brag about, I'd be there to tune my car.

It's not a case of 'hence 300+HP at the flywheel' if you work backwards like that you often wind up with a bulldust figure that you can't back up on the street or track for some strange reason.

best leave the rearwheel dyno charts with others from the same car and dyno.

Dyno's are for tuning.

Which is the reason why I asked if you had any dyno figures so I could see what sorta power you are making so I know what sorta power is required to physically power the car to a 12sec pass.

I think it would quite easily be 75% power and 25% driver talent.

HKS exhaust cam gear has arrived!

And I have given the S-afc II a bit more tuning last night along with some timing adjustments, I think I found another 5 hp.

I will get down the plex' for a test as soon as I get the cam gear on.

12 seconds here I come!

How'd ya' measure that 5hp rev? With the good 'ol Arse'o'meter? ;) Sorry mate had to be done :(

I'm tipping you'll be making it into the 12's very soon. I'm heading back to AIR this weekend, see if I can't get myself another low 13 with 115mph TS.

yeah with the ass 'o' meter, then again it could have been the chilli and guiness.

As long as you do a 1/4mile long burnout it doesn't matter what time you get.

Why don't you get hold of some AZNU ozrace tyre treatment for when you go down mate?

Chilli & Guiness! Hell just back that arse out the window & it's good for .2 & 5mph ;)

In all seriousness I "shouldn't" have too many issues with w/spin, as the RE540S's hook up 100% better than my old Falkens ever did! A 2.0X 60 is my goal, nothin' too extreme.

"RE540S"

What is the brand and specs of these and approx do they cost ?

I have Falken 225's on my car all round and I certainly think their is more traction to be gained with a better quality tyre.

benm,

The RE540S is Bridgestone's road legal competition tyre (semi-comp/semi-slick) is has minimal tread grooves & is designed for circuit style racing. It has a very stiff sidewall (one of the stiffest semi-comp's) so it doesn't really suit drag racing, however due to the very soft tread compound it gives awesome grip levels (both straight line & corner).

As with any competition tyre the RE540S needs heat before it gives it's best, has very poor wear rates, is noisey as hell & picks up every little stone on the road ("tink" "tink" on the inner guards)

For my needs I found the RE540S's grip levels, cost & all-round nature of the tyre (wet weather grip I haven't tested yet) to be unbeatable :)

RE540S - Re540-dack.jpg

It comes in a range of sizes from 185/55/14 to 265/30/18.

My rear 255/40/17's were $310ea front 235/45/17's were ~$280ea

Originally posted by benm

"RE540S"

What is the brand and specs of these and approx do they cost ?  

I have Falken 225's on my car all round and I certainly think their is more traction to be gained with a better quality tyre.

benm you're right, i have falken ziex 235front 255's on the rear, the engine is stock and it spins so easy. my old 33 had exhaust/filter, and 225 dunlop fm901's all round and it gripped so much better.

/me has Falken Ziex ZE-502 - 225/50/16 on all 4 noooo

Think I might go and rip afew donuts in my street to force myself to get some new tyres.

These things are absooooolute rubbish in the wet, I can't even roll around round-abouts without getting the tale all excited.

I still think they have a solid 4mths+ usage tho If I keep the rears spinning at the same revolutions as the front :)

Works Auto.

They flow enough for mid 13's all day on skinny little tyres, without any fueling adjustment and extra weight in the backseat.

The power has been increased since the last mid 13's meet. And the torque will see a further rise with the exhaust cam gear.

I am confident there is more than enough power flowing/squeezing throught the std turbo and cooler to propel the whale over the line in under 13sec .

The trick will be the 60ft. With a 2.1 I will get close, 2.0 or lower will see me safely there.

If not there are a few other things I'll resort to. I strongly doubt the turbo or intercooler will need changing at any rate.

Rev210 is also a smart guy (I've been following afew of his threads and reading his comments).

It doesnt take a HUGE front mount and a HUGE turbo to make good consistant power to get you down the 1/4 Mile.

I would say (from a non drag racing mind) it would be something like

40% driver

30% engine

20% handling setup (susp + tyres)

10% track conditions

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