Jump to content
SAU Community

R33: Hid Light Kit Install


damono
 Share

Recommended Posts

EDIT: Sorry guys pics didn't work at first as I had no way to check.. but they're all up now

Hey guys. This isn't a definate guide, but I just couldn't wait to put them in.

Also, im not sure if everything is 100% correct (actually I doubt it), but I put them in and they work... Also, this is for the H1 kit installed on a R33 GTST S1 Skyline, yours may not be exactly the same, but I guess the theory would be the same. This is from the Bankids group buy.

First take out the old globe assembly. The dust cover just screws off and the old globe is clipped into place. You have to make a small cut in the dust cover to push the wires and grommet out of the dust cap backwards so that it can be 'modified'. 'The Modifier' is my tool of choice, makes easy work of the plastic.

post-10683-1131848800.jpgpost-10683-1131848848.jpgpost-10683-1131848894.jpgpost-10683-1131848937.jpg

Basically we want to make room for the HID assembly and grommet attached. I used a 25mm hole saw drill bit thingy, but cut it however you want. Basically the hole must be about 25mm or 1inch if your american.

post-10683-1131848975.jpg

Be carefully with these and be sure to always wear appropriate safety equipment as shown in the picture. Once you cut the whole for the 25mm grommet, drill another hole with a 8mm or similar drill bit. It should look something similar to this after (but hopefully neater).

post-10683-1131849035.jpg

post-10683-1131849069.jpg

This is for putting the original wires into the sealed chamber where it was before.

post-10683-1131849104.jpg

Once these are pushed through and you can confirm that its pretty well air tight, crimp the old connectors to the new HID connectors, they were a bit of a different size on mine, but just make do.

I found that if your working on the wiring, the best bet is to put the HID globe back into its cannister so that it doesnt get knocked around also apparently you cant touch the glass of the new globe as it will create hotspots and decrease the life.

post-10683-1131849139.jpg

Once this is crimped, best to put a bit of electrical tape around these connections so that + doesnt touch -. If anyone has any better suggestions, do tell, but i'd say this would be the best bet. Next put the new HID globe where the old one sat previously. Screw the dust cover back on and that light is done.

post-10683-1131849174.jpg

Basically the other light is the same. I found that the drivers side is a bit harder to get to because of the washer bottle, but the air filter side (if you have a pod) is piece of piss to get to.

Once these lights are mounted, the next thing id suggest is to mount the ballasts and relay/fuse wiring. I put the relay/fuse wiring just to the drivers side of the radiator as there was a pre drilled hole so I just cable tied it to it, also it gave me enough length in the cable to stretch across to the passenger side lights.

post-10683-1131849219.jpg

The relays/fuse basically have 2 wires that connect to +12v and 2 wires that goto Ground (-). I ran my positive cables to the fuse box where i saw a + terminal screw, which I just screwed to the top of. The negative cables I just used the screw that was holding my strut brace on because it is earthed to the body.

post-10683-1131849255.jpg

I ran the relay/fuse cabling across the underside channel in front of the radiator and cable tied using existing pre drilled holes.

Make sure that you mount the balasts to the plate provided, im guessing this is because the balasts cannot be earthed, and a plastic set of grommets seperate them. I used the screws/bolts that came with the back to mount together. Then the backing/mounting plate can be mounted to your car.

post-10683-1131849281.jpg

I mounted the ballasts near the strut towers on either side, but i guess you can mount them anywhere you like as long as it doesn't interfere with anything, is pretty safe from the elements and you have enough cable to get to the lights. The drivers side again mounted to the strut brace bolt, and the passenger side to the air filter bracket (if you have a pod that is)

post-10683-1131849322.jpgpost-10683-1131849358.jpg

This is a pic showing you the difference between the light, disregard my headlights, they're faded to hell, I have to polish them tonight :huh:

post-10683-1131849384.jpg

I hope this helped some of you anyway. It's a work in progress... Let me know if I missed something or you need some clarifcation. Plus.. i headed out last night and tested them, they are bloody bright, very white light. I would definately recommend a H1 6000k set of HID's

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

gday mate. good DIY piece...i saw ur hav a turbosmart boost tee in ur setup... anyway u can do a diy on that? im not sure how 2 fit 1...apparently u need 2 disconnect the factory 1 etc...

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Damm this is a pretty good guide.

Sounds and looks easy. Which HIDs are good?

Oh as for the polishing the light plastic how do you intend to do that? Because mine is hella fadded too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It does sound like a fuse considering the indicators work..I’ll triple check when I’m free and report back.    thanks for the reply.
    • no, the car was a manual 5 speed from the factory and still is.
    • While going through data logs late last week, I spotted a small issue with my WMI. My WMI starts to progressively inject at 11psi of boost. I'm using a 25psi cut in pressure switch on my WMI as an added safety and if the curve is linear, I should hit that 25psi on my WMI system around 13-14psi of boost.  As per my data logs, my WMI pressure switch only activates around 19psi of boost. This is causing my non WMI 4D map to trim for WMI. I'm presuming this is caused by the mechanical switch response time, injection curve not being linear or both.  I ordered a 2-10psi adjustable cut in pressure switch which should correct this. If this doesn't resolve it before my dyno appointment on Friday, I'll just remove the pressure switch temporarily and more than likely replace it with a pressure transmitter afterwards.    BTW Speedtek has yet to refund me.
    • Yep PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol), my 'go to' plastic, printed to precisely how long I wanted 🙂, about a finger length ha ha. I would usually grind up something but since I've got the printer I thought I might give it a try and it worked beautifully ^_^b So with regards to torque, there's a little bit of science behind the orientation of the print, fill density, fill pattern and number of external perimeters which can increase the strength dramatically, but you still need to work within the constraints of the material and the orientation of the model for sure. I certainly wouldn't be making a breaker bar out of plastic, but this little bugger is very strong for it's size that's for sure.
    • This is the part I was unprepared for. I mean, thinking about it now, the first day I collected my car from the importer someone posted a photo of it on the highway to an online JDM page which my friend then sent me. I drove straight to the office to pick up some things and was immediately swarmed by about ten college kids -  "how much power" "why no wing" etc. The next couple times I went out I didn't really notice anything, there was a "why no wing" at a service area at some point. Then during the fourth time out driving at the Nurburgring I got the "do a drift" - the bastard cut it out in this clip. The title in itself is a red flag. As you may have guessed, I am not a fan of the attention. This leads me to wondering what to do with the car in the future; I'll see how this year goes and it may be garaged, which it mostly is already, or maybe even sent back to Japan  to also be garaged and driven occasionally on visits. Fortunately my daily is as interesting as drying paint.   
×
×
  • Create New...