Jump to content
SAU Community

A Few Questions About 33's

aired out
 Share

Recommended Posts

aired out Apprentice

aired out

Posted
Posted

hey guys

after being into customs for about the last 4 years i think im going to invest in a 33 to see what all the fuss is about with turbo cars :(

just wondering when im going to buy one, what sort of things should i look out for? i have no idea about engines and turbos and stuff i have always been into chassis modifying etc...

how many kms are they good for?

whats the highest boost u can put thru them before they start to play up?

whats involved with givin a series one a series 2 nose job, just the headlights and front bar or ?

and anything i should be looking out for?

thanks in advance guys....

Sam B)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94710-a-few-questions-about-33s/
Share on other sites
Paradizzle Grand Master

Paradizzle

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey mate,

Before someone bites your head off, ill say it to you nicely.

Most of the above items have already been discussed, try a search and you should get all your answers to the questions above.

Try the Tutorials/ DIY/ FAQ section of the forum for the things you should look out for when buying a skyline.

Good luck.

Edited by Paradizzle
IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
Posted
God I had a nigthmare trying to get my car through customs <_< Not directed at you aired out...

Ha, I got accused of under valuing my car, even though I had proof of payment etc, I still had to do a stat dec etc, also I coped a few days storage coz of em as well.

Also not directed at the thread starter.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted
hey guys

after being into customs for about the last 4 years i think im going to invest in a 33 to see what all the fuss is about with turbo cars :(

just wondering when im going to buy one, what sort of things should i look out for? i have no idea about engines and turbos and stuff i have always been into chassis modifying etc...

how many kms are they good for?

whats the highest boost u can put thru them before they start to play up?

whats involved with givin a series one a series 2 nose job, just the headlights and front bar or ?

and anything i should be looking out for?

thanks in advance guys....

Sam B)

Just look for the usual stuff when buying a car. There is a guide in the HOW-TO / Tutorial section on what specific things to look for when buying a Skyline. I suggest you go over those before you start looking at them. Also take a camera with you and take plently of photos (VIN plate as well) so when you get home you can double check stuff you have missed or forgotten.

The car will run for I would say 200,000+ easily provided it is serviced and looked after. Of course if you never change the oil and abuse it, it will certainly fail (like anything).

Running "highest boost" doesn't make power per se. Making more power is a combination of various things boost is just the most commonly referred to term. No more than 10psi on the standard turbocharger is safe and wont shorten its life. You can run 12psi if you wish but you will certainly shorten its lifespan. The heat associated with running 12psi will cause the turbocharger to fail. More boost doesn't always mean more power. it certainly means more heat however.

Don't bother with a series 1 to series 2 conversion, just source a series 2 in the first place. The series 2 is a minor bug fix with updated parts and some external changes (bonnet, grill, lights etc). You should be able to source a stock R33 series 2 in good condition standard for 19k on the road.

The easier and sometimes the most helpful way when looking at a Skyline in particular is try and locate any other SAU members in your local area to come and look at the car with you, two people looking at a car is great advantage, especially if they are a current Skyline owner

sewid Grand Master

sewid

Posted
Posted

As said,

1) look at all the regular things - you may want to get a mechanic to inspect it for you.

2) Easy 200,000 kms before major failures if left standard but be careful since most imports will have their odometers wound back in Japan.

3) 10psi is the maximum you would be able to run with the standard cooler. Better to run standard boost until you upgrade to a better cooler. A GTT cooler will bolt straight on and let you run 10psi safely for real cheap. A front mount would probably let you run 12psi on the stock turbo. I wouldn't push it further than that.

4) dont bother, its more trouble than its worth, just buy the car you want from the start. same goes for auto/manual and turbo/na. Dont kid yourself into thinking that itll be cheaper to "do a conversion" cuz it isnt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • DraftySquash
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • MBS206
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...