Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dear people,

I have conducted a search and found no info, so i need your oppinion.

I am currently building a meduim to high hp rb 30 /26.

I have assembled the bottom end and all good gear has been used .

BUT dam it i did not get the crank oil pump collar widend.

No one over here in WA does it any way.

I have just been informed that this was a crucial mistake and my N1 on the standard crank will not last 5 minutes , i tend to disagree.

Is it mainly in tired r32 rb26 engines that they let go ?

If this is the case what if i replace every , say x amount of km's.

Will this help or is it simply an hp issue.

Sometimes i wonder if some things i get told from tune shops are simply a "turnover factor " . Please enlighten me on this if you would not mind , are there any alternative measures i can take . some one mention a collar that can be bought or made .

Thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/94864-oil-pump-crank-collar-r32-rb26/
Share on other sites

Dave has an RB30 bottom end but yes a new crank is the best.

far comment guys , only trouble is , the crank has been metalaxed ( spellings wrong ), balanced , journals opened etc etc.

Dave has an RB30 bottom end but yes a new crank is the best.

fare comment guys , only trouble is , the crank has been metalaxed ( spellings wrong ), balanced , journals opened etc etc.

The external pump that you suggested Steve sounds viabel , need more info if you don't mind Steve.

Edited by exXU1

guy its a rb30 crank so he cant use a rb26 crank as the stoke would be wrong and the whole point of using the rb30 block is for the longer stroke.

Dave i think your only really opinion is to buy a jun collar and fit it to your crank Proengines stated it takes a couple of hours to fit. As you have treated the crank it would seem a wait to weld it up and regrind so best bet buy the jun collar.

pete

ps i would definitly address this weakness for what you are trying to do

Dave it should not be a problem and its easy to do for any machining shop, it shouldnt hurt your bottom end to drop the cradle and big ends take the crank out and get the collar fitted @ around $500 its a cheaper alternative to new rebuild!!!

Dave it should not be a problem and its easy to do for any machining shop, it shouldnt hurt your bottom end to drop the cradle and big ends take the crank out and get the collar fitted @ around $500 its a cheaper alternative to new rebuild!!!

If I need this done to my R32, and the engine is in the car. How much do you think it would cost to get done? Is it a complete engine removal to do? (I assume it is..)

This is all a bit of a worry. I have heard of stock oil pumps failing, needing this collar fitted, having to fit a Tomei oil restrictor and a baffled sump. Sounds like any R32 making 350-450 hp at the fly more or less needs to be pulled apart and these things done before you can be 'safe' yeah? Assuming you want to drive it at the 'occasional' track day?

I guess the question is - "how often do these things fail?"

Am I better off just driving it and only pulling it out after a failure?

If I need this done to my R32, and the engine is in the car. How much do you think it would cost to get done?  Is it a complete engine removal to do? (I assume it is..) 

This is all a bit of a worry. I have heard of stock oil pumps failing, needing this collar fitted, having to fit a Tomei oil restrictor and a baffled sump. Sounds like any R32 making 350-450 hp at the fly more or less needs to be pulled apart and these things done before you can be 'safe' yeah?  Assuming you want to drive it at the 'occasional' track day?

I guess the question is - "how often do these things fail?"

Am I better off just driving it and only pulling it out after a failure?

Peter, Steve , Daniel,

thanks for your input. Welding the crank ( even with top crank specialist is not an option to me )

purchased a jun collar today and crank is out.

For those that have seen a problem with the smaller drive, has that been on a new oil pump, or on an old worn one?

I have looked at a couple of old pumps and they definately show wear from the smaller collar.....but how long until it would actually fail?

Does anyone have a first hand experience?

I have one here at the moment that is looking pretty close to letting go. I have some photos if you're interested. I also have some photos of the process of fitting a crank collar, I did one on an RB30 crank not long ago. It's a good couple of hours work to do but comes up really well. It does add up a bit though, the cost of the collar plus around $200 labour to fit it.

I would definately run the bigger drive, the early R32 one doesn't engage a lot of the pump gear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...