Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Question:

You guys say that the car needs to be re-tuned if you use the 100RON fuel right? If not it may/will cause damage due to the engine running too lean?

My question is how you get the car to the tuner once you fill the car up with this stuff (100RON)? Granny it to the tuner? Obviously I'd need to drive around to burn off the excess non-100RON fuel first right?

For those too lazy to click on the link

Coles Express Dickson Cnr Antill & Badham St Dickson ACT

*Coles Express Carlton 277–281 Princes Hwy Carlton NSW

*Coles Express Darlinghurst 47 Flinders St Darlinghurst NSW

*Coles Express Dundas Cnr Kissing Point Rd & Kirby St Dundas NSW

Coles Express Fairfield Cnr Polding St & The Horsley Drv Fairfield NSW

Coles Express Green Valley Cnr Cowpasture Rd & Green Valley Cartwright NSW

Coles Express Hurstville 39 Forest Rd Hurstville NSW

Coles Express Kingsford 48–56 Gardeners Rd Kingsford NSW

Coles Express Kirrawee Cnr Princes Hwy & The Boulevard Kirrawee NSW

Coles Express Lidcombe 18 Parramatta Rd Lidcombe NSW

*Coles Express Marsfield Cnr Epping Rd & Culloden Rd Marsfield NSW

Coles Express Neutral Bay Cnr Ben Boyd Rd & Ernest St Neutral Bay NSW

Coles Express North Ryde Wicks 96 Wicks Rd North Ryde NSW

^^^^^^Places listed on Shell.com as stocking 100 Optimax^^^^^

My 0.02c: not enough places stock 100RON fuel to make the effort (and cost) to retune for the time being*.

A question for Jim: if you tune for this new fuel, what do the AFRs look like when you stick 98 back in (without altering the tune again)? I would assume rich, but how much extra timing (if any) did you wind in?

* For me, anyway. None of the petrol stations are anywhere near me, and the last thing I want to have to do is drive around like a granny looking for a Shell stocking 100RON fuel.

i wouldnt get it tuned for that just for the fact that u cant get the fuel from many places, so if you go for a nice drive out to a small town of something, you wont get the right fuel. ok for a race car or something you never drive far.

Problem with that midnight is you would get a mix of 100RON and 98RON and have a crossover period.. but that's about it..

What about running it in a Stock R33 - resetting the ECU - they run rich as they are - but would the timing need to be changed?

That is right but if you use it you need to retune the engine as the 100 uses 2 percent oxygen

Shouldn't that statement be:

"To make the same power (as 98) with 100,and have the correct mixture, you need to retune the engine as the 100 uses 2 percent more oxygen therefore the engine will run leaner." or something like that :P

Please correct me if I'm wrong, Jim. Putting 100 in a car tuned to run on 98, 95, or 90 will not make the engine run leaner, it just wont burn all the available fuel.

40 killowats aint to bad at all Jim. Has anyone checked the price of the 100ron vs optimax? Certainly seems like good value considering you got more than 10% extra power out of this GTR.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
    • OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse.  But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift  
×
×
  • Create New...