Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I've got a Series II 33, 5 Spd, and when I change gears from 3rd->4th or 4th->5th the box crunches into gear. This does not occur when shifting down, either normal down shift or double clutch, and only occurs going up through the gears and when I am changing gears under full load/rev conditions. When driving the car around normally the only issue is that the change from 1st->2nd is notchy/clunky/grabby if you get my meaning. Now the first problem to me seems like a worn clutch that's slipping when the engine is at full revs or worn synchros. The second issue definitely seems like a synchro issue.

Thoughts and ideas would be appreciated and if you happen to know the associated cost with your suggestion/idea/opinion, please include that info.

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/95454-gears-grinding-through-wot-changes/
Share on other sites

Yep sounds like a synchro issue to me too...does it stop happening if you upshift more slowly?

If it happens stationery at idle its more likely to be a master or slave cylinder or clutch adjustment problem

Nah, if I shift slower (IE allow revs to drop more) it doesn't crunch, which to me implied synchros. What kind of $$ are we talking for this redline oil? In addition, how does this oil solve crunching issues, I'm assuming it's a different viscosity to standard box oil?

Cheers

how much is needed for a Series 2 R33 GTS-T?

Yeah that's what I'd like to know, hopefully at 120 for 3.7L that'd be enough.

As for speeds, I change at between 6k-6.5K when I'm giving it stick and the change from 2nd to 3rd occurs at around 90-100 depending on ambient temp, gradient of road etc etc etc. 3rd goes to about 140 or so I think but I'm watching the road closely by this point. My car is speed limited so you only just get to shift into 5th and it's @ 180. Of the few times I've done this it's on a few very quite back roads late at night by myself.

so the question still remains... is 3.7L enough?

Any1 know what prices the Motul and Castrol oils go for?

approx 3 litres for rb25, 3.7 is definantly enough.

my rb20 box took 2.5 litres from memory.

motul and castrol probably cheaper, though do a search for "redline" on the forum, and you'll see how many skyline owners swear by it.

"liquid gold" mate!!!

approx 3 litres for rb25,  3.7 is definantly enough.

my rb20 box took 2.5 litres from memory.

motul and castrol probably cheaper,  though do a search for "redline" on the forum, and you'll see how many skyline owners swear by it.

"liquid gold" mate!!!

and how often does it need to be changed? is it every 5000k's like the engine?

The redline light wieght shock proof is excelent in the gear box - transformed my old wrx gearbox.

But no way I would leave it for 50000km. 10000 to 15000 max.

$120 for the large bottle is a good price.

  • 3 weeks later...
If it happens stationery at idle its more likely to be a master or slave cylinder or clutch adjustment problem

Duncan: by clutch adjustment, are you just talking the clutch pedal or is there some other adjustment in the hyrdaulic system?

Redline is the ony gearbox oil to use. Although it does look rather funky :D My car was crunching 3rd to 4th almost regardless of speed. It would do it putting along at 60km/h. Changed the oil to Redline and it hasn't crunched since, even at track days. . . . .

There is a threaded bar which the pedal uses to push the master cylinder, it can be lengthened or shortened if needed. But its not normally a problem, just an easy thing to try first

Well... turns out that I have some other weird problem. The clutch slave was pushing on the little paddle when fully released, which meant that it was disengaging the clutch slightly the whole time. SteveGTS4 (mate) helped pull it out, then we grinded a bit of the pin of the slave off, and it pretty much doesn't slip anymore. I have a new slave on standby if anything goes pear-shaped.

The new slave's pin was longer, being new and all, and fitted worse than the old one. We're thinking that maybe something else was changed when a button-clutch may have been installed in Japan sometime?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I havent bought a manual cover for the dash yet and no cluster change, won't bother me too much, I just need to get that auto box gone, manual in! I miss my manual. 🤪. We started last weekend and managed to get the box out. Planning to start putting it in this weekend and then order a single piece tail. We were super careful to take time and not damage anything. It's my first time working under the car.  With my S15 mainly worked in the bay. This time, it was a headache because of three or four bolts only. They simply didnt want to leave thei homr and the one securing the tailshaft, another above the GB, and the one securing the lipstick was a shit. Mates mate, Davo caught fire 🤣, nearly opened his chest up with a grinder 🤦🏽‍♂️ and both mates nearly had a plate from the box land and slit their head open. Fun times. We all survived. Not the easiest working with limited access on jackstands. As I'm sure we can agree these are the memories which make us love our car. For all three of us, was an awesome weekend and Sunday 3.30am before tools down was a fantastic effort. I need to upload pics, but looks like it needs to be via Url now. We used to be able to just upload pics back in the day. It's been that long! 🤪 Im currently spraying rustoleum under body, not because it's rusted. It's super clean, but just so it's protected for the next 10 years. There was a few surface rust spots. Which pretty much wiped off with a 3M scourer.  Really impressed with how well the previous owner maintained it. Bank account went down so quick! Service, then GB - managed to get a spanking new 34 genuine box from Nissan. All the rest of the conversion parts from Kudos.  Went with a Nismo short shifter. New pedals and Exedy Clutch and FW. Ordered the Prp Rear Main Retainer kit which should arrive Friday and my first engine mod part just like I did with my S15 will be the Tomei Expreme Turbo Outlet. Already on order. It'll likely sleep next to me on a pillow during the coming months. 🥰 Last build was on my JET200GT profile and on SAU and Hardtuned I had documented the build. Planning to try to do that again. Brands feel scarce now. Wish we still had ARC and Apexi parts readily available. Exhaust - need some advice on this. I had an Apexi exhaust on the S15 and loved the tone. My mate had a HKS HP Silent on his 33 and suggested I go with that to avoid drone. I can't remember hearing an RB25DET running that so will likely need to wait for a meet or something to hear it.  Not after big power, just enjoy building it, and drivability with minimal negative attention.
    • Have a chat with Ben at Moore Performance or Jesse at JS Performance.
    • Thanks both. All good advice. Reminds me of drilling through stone wall for drainage pipe 😬 I'll let you know how I get on if I still have use of my hands afterwards 😅
    • Finally got shipping number for the intake and throttle body, shipped by UPS, so "should" be in my hands sometime next week, fingers fracking crossed
    • I'm so far behind in the jobs I have to do at both work and home (including car) that I have become immortal. There's simply no way that I can die now.
×
×
  • Create New...