Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Please state the following rule no./no's you have concerns about or idea's for improvement and they will be forwarded on. please leave discussion out so we are a bit clearer on what you would actually like looked at.

Edited by DiRTgarage
  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK ill start it off.

SR,SF, rule 6.1

Interior: Complete interior, including dashboard, door panels, headliner etc., mandatory. Rear seat may be removed. Two matching front seats mandatory. Aftermarket seats permitted, but must be fully upholstered. All factory controls must be retained and operative; i.e., lights, signals, horn, windows and wipers. Refer ANDRA General Regulations 4.6.1.

Changed to read the following....

SR,SF, rule 6.1

Interior: Complete interior, including dashboard, door panels, headliner etc., mandatory. Rear seat may be removed. Two matching front seats mandatory, or in the case of driving racing seat fitted for cars running 9.99 or quicker (as per ANDRA General Regulations 4.6.1.), it must be fully upholstered and original OEM passenger seat or matching racing seat fitted. All factory controls must be retained and operative; i.e., lights, signals, horn, windows and wipers. Refer ANDRA General Regulations 4.6.1.

Edited by DiRTgarage

I'm not sure if the current classes need altering or if another class needs to be implemented. Although it could be argued that the ET1 and ET2 classes can and will cater for any cars outside the current rules, maybe something like a quick 16 heads up class could also be introduced?

Are people satisfied with DYO? Due to the lack of consistency with any late model turbo cars is it really necessary? At the end of the day with the current ruels there's a field cutoff, so the slower cars are not going to be in the field. So then you are left with the quickest cars duking it out... but to a DYO rule.

Personally I'd like to see a heads up class catering for street registered running radial tyres and realistic weight limits. Given the current crop of Skylines racing there are already 8 cars running within a second of each other, which would make for some pretty competitive racing. Adding other late model cars then there's easily a 16 car field, if you stretch it a bit there's over 32 cars that could make the field.

Just think, a 32 car field of late model street cars running heads up between 9.5 to 11.x seconds - with the lack of consistency and breakages it really could be anyone's race. Add a decent prize money pool + I'm sure alot of people would be interested in running this class.

In 6 months I wouldn't be surprised to see 16 cars all in the 9.5 to 10.0 range, hell even on SAU there'd be at least 8.

I'm not sure if the current classes need altering or if another class needs to be implemented. Although it could be argued that the ET1 and ET2 classes can and will cater for any cars outside the current rules, maybe something like a quick 16 heads up class could also be introduced?

Are people satisfied with DYO? Due to the lack of consistency with any late model turbo cars is it really necessary? At the end of the day with the current ruels there's a field cutoff, so the slower cars are not going to be in the field. So then you are left with the quickest cars duking it out... but to a DYO rule.

Personally I'd like to see a heads up class catering for street registered running radial tyres and realistic weight limits. Given the current crop of Skylines racing there are already 8 cars running within a second of each other, which would make for some pretty competitive racing. Adding other late model cars then there's easily a 16 car field, if you stretch it a bit there's over 32 cars that could make the field.

Just think, a 32 car field of late model street cars running heads up between 9.5 to 11.x seconds - with the lack of consistency and breakages it really could be anyone's race. Add a decent prize money pool + I'm sure alot of people would be interested in running this class.

In 6 months I wouldn't be surprised to see 16 cars all in the 9.5 to 10.0 range, hell even on SAU there'd be at least 8.

it will always be dyo,

dyo is harder racing than head up any way, you have to think about it way more.

if you want slicks go race in Sports Mod!!!!

so so true, you want lighter min weights race in sports mod, you want slicks yep sports mod allows that aswell all in all everything you guys are asking for other then heads up is in sports mod maybe instead of whinging about the rules of srwd step up and race in sports mod that already has everything your asking for

I myslef am looking forward to racing in srwd I have built the car with the rules in mind every step of the way

SPORT RWD – DYO - CLASS REGULATIONS

Class Designations: SRWD followed by driver’s competition number.

Sport Rear Wheel Drive is designed for full-bodied, street type cars using all wheel drive, rear wheel drive and street orientated tyres.

Minimum Weights:

2 Rotor – 2300 pounds/ 1045kg

4 Cylinder RWD – 2300 pounds/ 1045kg

4 Cylinder AWD – 2400 pounds/ 1090kg

6 Cylinder RWD – 3100 pounds/ 1409kg

6 Cylinder AWD – 3200 pounds/ 1454kg

Non-original OEM transmission permitted (e.g. Power glide in a Supra), but will be assigned a 150 pound penalty

Having had a look at the standard weights for R32/33/34 GTST and GTR I would like to change that to;

Minimum Weights:

2 Rotor – 2300 pounds/ 1045kg

3 Rotor – 3000 pounds/ 1360kg

4 Cylinder RWD – 2300 pounds/ 1045kg

4 Cylinder AWD – 2400 pounds/ 1090kg

6 Cylinder RWD – 3000 pounds/ 1360kg

6 Cylinder AWD – 3200 pounds/ 1454kg

Non-original OEM transmission permitted (e.g. Power glide in a Supra), but will be assigned a 220 pound penalty (100kgs)

I believe that the 94 kgs is a much fairer/more accurate reflection of the weight and performance separation between 2wd and 4wd.

It means a straight off the street R32GTST with an 85 kg driver doesn't have to carry ballast.

R33GTST and R34GTT would make that weight with the common/relatively inexpensive weight reductions and an 85kg driver.

I have added 3 rotor, because someone seems to have forgotten about Cosmos with the standard 20B.

The current penalty for a non OEM gearbox of 150 lbs is nowhere near the achievable performance gain and we should be encouraging the use of OEM parts wherever possible.

:rolleyes: cheers :D

PS; Personally I don't care that Supra's will have trouble making that weight limit, they have a 3 litre engine to make up for it.

Edited by Sydneykid
PS; Personally I don't care that Supra's will have trouble making that weight limit, they have a 3 litre engine to make up for it.

personally i dont care about light wieght r32 skylines, eat mcdonalds get fat and race in our class. or go sport mod.

maybe we should change the class name from sport rwd to r32gtst rwd.

seriously, is this class all about skylines.

shane.

The current penalty for a non OEM gearbox of 150 lbs is nowhere near the achievable performance gain and we should be encouraging the use of OEM parts wherever possible.

:rolleyes: cheers :D

PS; Personally I don't care that Supra's will have trouble making that weight limit, they have a 3 litre engine to make up for it.

Dude you're a goose, there are a few ways to look at that ruling. One is that the cars are meant to be "street" cars, and should be running stock gearboxes. Another is by restricting the transmissions allowed will encourage cheaper parts.

The reality is that the only OEM parts used by the majority of the qualifying field is the outside case. So a $10,000 PPG box is "worse" than a $4,000 Powerglide? From a breakage point of view too the Powerglide will be cheaper to run and maintain than a dog box. How is that a realistic rule?

SK wouldnt you be runing an rb31 with a rb25 box wouldnt this come under non-oem trans. if you have a OEM box full of PPg gear are u still hit with the weight penalty

Edited by blk180

That's the point, it's classed as an OEM trans and legal engine combination so no weight penalty applies.

I think it's a bit rediculous where there are a million posts promoting how much "cheaper" and "better" an RB30 combination is over a regular 25 or 26... yet when it comes to a ruling the "cheaper" and "better" alternative is dismissed as it's not in your favor.

so so true, you want lighter min weights race in sports mod, you want slicks yep sports mod allows that aswell all in all everything you guys are asking for other then heads up is in sports mod maybe instead of whinging about the rules of srwd step up and race in sports mod that already has everything your asking for

I myslef am looking forward to racing in srwd I have built the car with the rules in mind every step of the way

Im happy someone else sees it that way.

thanks Brett.

There is a class there with super light weights , slicks, and allows a whole lot more things.

The Sport/Rwd is aimed at the Street/Drag Cars. Street being the emphasis.

whats wrong with some of the big piston cars? too scared to race some rotors in sport mod?

Mick

Please state the following rule no./no's you have concerns about or idea's for improvement and they will be forwarded on. please leave discussion out so we are a bit clearer on what you would actually like looked at.

As per quote above...can we have a clear direction here....???

I think because it's a street orientated class, hence full trim, exhaust etc.

I understand that, but like I said Super Street (S/ST) is the regular ANDRA street class equivalent, and slicks are fine in that class. So what's the difference?

so so true, you want lighter min weights race in sports mod, you want slicks yep sports mod allows that aswell all in all everything you guys are asking for other then heads up is in sports mod maybe instead of whinging about the rules of srwd step up and race in sports mod that already has everything your asking for

I myslef am looking forward to racing in srwd I have built the car with the rules in mind every step of the way

Welcome to Sport RWD, the class for street cars.

Because all street cars have welded in six point roll cages, parachutes, tailshaft loops, ballistc blankets on the bellhousing, external battery isolator switches, five point harnesses and wheel studs.

:-)

Edited by MrBlonde
Welcome to Sport RWD, the class for street cars.

Because all street cars have welded in six point roll cages, parachutes, tailshaft loops, ballistc blankets on the bellhousing, external battery isolator switches, five point harnesses and wheel studs.

:-)

And the problem with that is???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...