Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is a bit of talk about this around but for those of you who don't leav the Vic section Shell have release a 100 RON fuel, the first in Aus. Only issue here is they have added 5% Ethanol. I'm not sure what issues if any this can cause for us skyline drivers but I'd be interested to hear what people have to say

Also keen to know price of it compared to say standard unleaded...

Cut from Shells website -

"Shell Optimax Extreme is a new super-high octane fuel with a minimum octane rating of 100, the highest currently available at any Australian service station. Shell Optimax Extreme is formulated with 5% ethanol.

Shell Optimax Extreme is formulated to deliver more engine responsiveness, sharper acceleration and enhanced power in many modern and high performance vehicles compared to other Shell premium fuels.

Ethanol is a renewable non-fossil fuel produced in Australia. When used in fuel it’s a cleaner burning, renewable component that helps to reduce Greenhouse gas emissions. In addition, through the formulation with ethanol, Shell Optimax Extreme has a substantially lower sulphur and benzene content than the maximum levels set under the Federal Government’s fuel quality standards. Ethanol is a cleaner burning, renewable fuel component that helps to reduce Greenhouse gas emissions."

Shell Optimax Extreme will initially be available at selected Coles Express sites in the Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Canberra.

Link - http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId...ut_extreme.html

Link regarding compatibility for "local" cars - http://www.fcai.com.au/ethanol.php/2005/11/00000005.html

Interesting read - http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa102100a.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/96631-shell-optimax-extreme-100-octane/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Theres a massive thread on this somewhere......

But yeah, mixed results, some ppl reckon the car pings etc, but when the car is tuned, better results.

Ofcourse Nissan wouldn't endorse it, why would they risk it and open themselves up to potential lawsuits.....

i didnt think higher RON increased performance. The RON of the fuel from my understanding does not increase power alone.. i thought it just meant u can tune the car for more power. I thought it was the way the fuel burns. ie. how well it burns etc.

but its been out for a while and i remember some mates who did testing at their uni on petrols which had ethanol and depending on the %'s added was clean and ran fine.

we've been using 10% blended fuels lately cause theyre upto 10c+ cheaper then normal... but the risk of issues coming up are a little greater but then again it once again depends on how much is blended. Mind u for skylines and turbo cars i wouldnt use it... the 100 shell i would... cause its just 98ron with a 5% blend which is stuff all.

Refer here, for effects of using ethanol blends.

Nissan Aust. doesn't recommend the use of this fuel in pre 04 vehicles, but they do not state why. It would be nice if they just outlined the problem areas.

That just outlines problems with a 20% blend. Also I believe Nissan discourages the use of 10% blend.

Optimax Extreme is a 5% blend, which as far as I know is quite safe to use in just about any car.

Edited by shyster

far less if not none...

im pretty sure some racing fuels use ethanol.

here... like i was trying to say it just lessens the risk of knocking (higher RON) so that means u can tune your engine more to gain more power BUT higher octane fuels wont give u more power alone

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_rating

A common myth amongst petrol consumers is that adding a higher octane fuel to a vehicle's engine will increase its performance and/or lessen its fuel consumption; this is mostly false—engines perform best when using fuel with the octane rating they were designed for and any increase in performance by using a fuel with a different octant rating is minimal.

so unless your car is tuned for 100RON your wasting your time buying it based on "performance gains", however if your car is tuned for 98 then this will mean you will be quite safe from knocking.

In regards to corrosive effect on metal fuel parts, this is from the Shell's website FAQ...

I have heard reported in the media issues with ethanol and engine corrosion and its effect on metal parts. What steps are you taking to protect my engine and its components?

The issues you have heard about relate to a situation in 2003 when some retailers were selling fuel products with more than 20% ethanol blend without sufficient disclosure to customers.  Shell was not involved in this practice and took active steps at the time to promote that our fuel did not contain ethanol.  It has now been shown through extensive testing and research that a maximum 10% ethanol content is suitable for many cars which is why the Federal Government has set a maximum 10% ethanol content in Australian fuel.  Shell has determined that a formulation of 5% ethanol optimises Shell Optimax Extreme (the same level that Governments in Europe are encouraging in their specification).  All ethanol used in Shell fuel contains a suitable corrosion inhibitor.

Now if the Optimax Extreme may not sound too bad for metal parts, in regards to rubber fuel parts shrinkage issue, perhaps changing all your fuel lines, basicaly anything that is made from rubber, to braided steel lines. Of course it's recommended to use ADR approved ones, e.g. made by Maltech in Geelong, whom some of us has organised a group buy with.

It's more expensive than normal optimax....wth?

I thought the whole point of blending ethanol was to reduce the overall cost of the petrol....i think Shell may just be targeting the performance market....

Also, check out this guys dyno results after a tune, hell if I could get those results just after a "tune" I'm all for it.......

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=95349

i thought it would be obvious that nissan is going to say dont use it...

compare it to the "this product may contain traces of peanuts" thing

when half the stuff that says it would never have a peanut anywhere near it....they say that to cover their ass in the worst case scenario etc...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...