Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

must be something with 19 yr old girls and lowered cars then Gradenko because thats how old i am. My car handled fine being the height it is before the stops packed it in - you still feel the road a little more than a standard but it wasnt enough to make the cd player skip back then.

If it aint broke dont fix it :starwars:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/page/3/#findComment-156761
Share on other sites

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Nizmo

must be something with 19 yr old girls and lowered cars then Gradenko because thats how old i am. My car handled fine being the height it is before the stops packed it in - you still feel the road a little more than a standard but it wasnt enough to make the cd player skip back then.  

If it aint broke dont fix it :P

But if the stops are broke then it is.

A properly setup suspension should only hit the bump stops occasionally , not all the time.

Even the rally cars only get the bump stops refreshed about once a season

If it ain't broke then don't fix it means that you spend your whole time trying to maintain the car.

Trick is to IMPROVE it , make it FASTER , make LIGHTER , make HANDLE , make it leap tall buildings in a single bound.....

:lol:

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/page/3/#findComment-157144
Share on other sites

Im getting it fixed - it just takes a bit of money so once that comes in it'll be back to how it was before - which handled great it grips the road has hardly any roll just a back end that likes to slide out hahaha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/page/3/#findComment-157500
Share on other sites

$500 here, $500 there, where does it stop? I am trying to be sensible about my car, but I need everything done now. I never thought too much about suspension, but my car is incredibly uncomfortable on a bumpy road. I have HKS adjustable suspension, but I have no idea about the springs or anything like that. When I asked my mechanic to lift the suspension he said it is at the optimum hieght for performance, and something to do with campher.

Is there a cheap way of making it run a little smoother?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/page/3/#findComment-160664
Share on other sites

Youve also gotta realise that most Japanese springs and shocks, coilovers included and F'IN stiff. Like REALLY stiff. Pedders and Kings products provide a much nicer ride and in some cases better handling than the jap stuff simply because the car isnt tracking over bumps in the road all the time.

Ive got Tanabe shocks with Apexi springs and its about as stiff as id like to go, any more and it becomes jarring to drive. My mate in rocko has an EVO4 with Bridgestone Potenza coilovers... yes suspension made by a tyre company.... i have NEVER ridden in a more uncomfortable car in my life... felt like the shocks were just steel bars.

Red17

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/page/3/#findComment-160684
Share on other sites

haha i always thought fremantle catered for the lowered car lucky you werent up in the hills with us hillbillies - you only get one chance when you take on a curb up here - took on one about a year n half ago and lost!! My poor Z31 had to be towed away because i blew out a tyre and couldnt find the lock nut haha!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/page/3/#findComment-160730
Share on other sites

Originally posted by angel

$500 here, $500 there, where does it stop? I am trying to be sensible about my car, but I need everything done now.  I never thought too much about suspension, but my car is incredibly uncomfortable on a bumpy road.  I have HKS adjustable suspension, but I have no idea about the springs or anything like that. When I asked my mechanic to lift the suspension he said it is at the optimum hieght for performance, and something to do with campher.  

Is there a cheap way of making it run a little smoother?

If it's adjustable for bump you could try softening them off but it's probably the springs are 90% of the problem.

Ohh and it's Camber which is the inward ( negative ) or outward ( positive ) inclination of the front wheel from perpendicular.

LOL *campher*

That will stop the moths from eating the seats.

Cheers

Ken

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/9705-low/page/3/#findComment-160749
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...